Touba London – Conversation 9 – Samantha Platero Of Dineh Jewelry
Conversation 9 | Samantha Platero of Dineh Jewelry and Chi San Wan
Crafted by Diné master craftsmen on the Navajo nation and Sante Fe, New Mexico, Dineh Jewelry is an au-thentic Navajo Jewelry brand. Only a few years young, Dineh prides itself on using the highest quality pre-cious metals and stones. Each collection is a collaboration with a master Jeweler and Samantha Platero, founder of Dineh. After leaving the USA and studying in Europe, Platero found herself being drawn back into the family’s artistic legacy. Below we find out more about how Dineh came to be her calling.
Q. CAN YOU TELL ME THE JOURNEY YOU TOOK THAT LEAD YOU TO START DINEH JEWELRY?
I grew up with silversmithing in my family. Both my grandparents were silversmiths, as well as my great grandparents, and great-great-grandparents. My last name Platero also means silversmith, which was given to my great-great-grandfather when the Spanish came to America. I never had any intention of making a career out of my roots. I left the USA after high school and lived in Rome, Italy for a year to take classes in ceramics and photography. I then moved to Madrid, Spain for a year to do a study abroad program, then I finished my studies in London, England and graduated with a degree in Journalism and Media Studies. While I was studying in London I was working part-time for a fine jewelry designer. She worked with the best goldsmiths in London and I would often have to pick up pieces from their workshop and I always enjoyed being around the goldsmiths as it reminded me of being back at my grandparents’ workshop. I continued to work for the jewelry designer after I graduated for 4.5 years, and I gained experience in working for an international jewelry business. I moved back to the USA and started working for another well respected fine jewelry designer in Los Angeles for 2.5 years. While being back in the USA, I would visit home on the reservation and couldn’t help but notice the state of Native American jewelry. I would go to the markets and noticed the quality of the jewelry was not at all to the quality my grandparents prided themselves on. I also noticed companies that sold Native American jewelry to larger and international clientele were often non-native people and would buy jewelry from Native artisans and mark up the pieces extortionately and these companies would make all the money. I then started to wonder why there were not any known Native American owned jewelry businesses that sold internationally with a focus on providing jobs to communities that needed work and paying them at the price they deserved. Of course, there are Native American silversmiths who sell internationally but not as a larger collective company that is owned and operated by Natives. So for 2 years while working in Los Angeles I started creating Dineh. In my free time, I was going to Indian markets and meeting various artisans that I wanted to work with and making sure it was of the quality that I envisioned. I met a Navajo silversmith at Indian Market 4 years ago in Santa Fe, and when I moved to Santa Fe 3 years ago we started working together. Soon afterward, I started working with my tribe. The Navajo Nation owns its own jewelry manufacturing, that makes the jewelry for the stores that are located on the Navajo Nation, and they were able to help me also in making collections for Dineh. Going into my 3rd year, I am now looking to create my own manufacturing on the reservation in a community that is known for great silversmithing talent, and also has a high demand for jobs. I want to create an economy through our timeless craft while providing jobs for my people and with this vision, Dineh Jewelry has only just begun….
Q. WHAT ARE THE CORE CONCEPTS OF DINEH THAT YOU HAVE CREATED?
I use traditional Navajo silversmithing techniques with a modern vision. The pieces that are made are of the highest quality and standards.
Q. HAS IT EVOLVED SINCE THE BEGINNING?
Yes, very much! I believe Dineh has evolved since the beginning, as I have a better understanding of the direction and vision. And Dineh will continue to evolve.
Q. HOW DO YOU APPROACH THE DESIGN PROCESS FOR EACH COLLECTION?
The design process for every collection has been very different for each one. The collections always come from traditional techniques or have a story or meaning from my culture. I am constantly playing with stones and shapes, and imagining pieces reworked to have a minimal aesthetic and something that I would wear. I have an inspirational piece for each collection and this always has a way of coming to me, and the moment it does, it’s a sort of a eureka moment.
Q. FROM WHERE DO YOU DRAW INSPIRATION?
My surroundings – my family farm, nature, travel, books, and people.
Q. ARE THERE DAYS YOU DON’T FEEL INSPIRED, AND IF SO, HOW DO YOU OVERCOME THIS?
Yes! I go out for a run in the morning and offer a prayer to the creator, asking for the strength and guidance to walk in beauty. Prayer is very powerful in the Diné culture and you use it for guidance, to bring protection, balance, and beauty.
Q. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PRECIOUS STONE TO WORK WITH AND WHY?
I love working with White Buffalo Turquoise – it is a white stone with black veins and it pairs beautifully with other stones as I like to use inlay (a traditional technique) that uses a mix of stones.
Q. DO YOU WEAR A ‘UNIFORM’ SET OF JEWELRY EVERY DAY, OR DO YOU CHANGE IT UP FROM ONE DAY TO THE NEXT?
I wear the same pieces every day – one cuff that was made by my grandfather, two rings my grandmother made, one oval ring my grandfather made, a silver band my mother made and 2 rings from my first collection called Shiprock.
Q. WHAT DOES A ‘TYPICAL’ WORK DAY LOOK LIKE FOR YOU WORKING ON DINEH?
My schedule is always different – I sometimes have to wake up and go straight to meet with the artisans to check up on orders and work on new designs, then I will come back to my home office and work on emails and the admin parts of running a business. Some days I will sit in my office designing, and other days solely working the admin parts of the business.
Q. WHEN YOU ARE NOT WORKING, HOW DO YOU LIKE TO RELAX?
I spend most of my time outside. I like to run, hike, take my dog to the dog park, go to our local sauna (more of a Japanese onsen) Ten Thousand Waves – Santa Fe is one of the most beautiful places to be outside!
Q. WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE PLACES FOR —
. . . FASHION? Second-hand stores here in Santa Fe and Albuquerque are my favorites!
. . . DESIGN? Libraries.
. . . ART? Louisiana – The Museum of Modern Art outside of Copenhagen, Denmark.
. . . FOOD? Clamato in Paris, France.
. . . DRINK? Tequila, soda water & lime.
. . . A WEEKEND AWAY? Camping in the Jemez Mountains.
. . . A LONG HOLIDAY? Yellowstone.
Q. WHAT ARE YOU CURRENTLY —
. . . LISTENING TO? Tezeta by Mulatu Astatke.
. . . READING? How to Love by Thich Nhat Hanh.
. . . INTERESTED IN? Long dinners with good company.
. . . MOST LOOKING FORWARD TO? This year! The year has already been very abundant and beautiful, and I look forward to seeing what the rest of the year has in store for me and Dineh!
Q. WHO ARE THE MAIN THREE INSPIRATIONS WHO HAVE HELPED SHAPE YOU?
My mother, my grandparents and my aunt.
Q. IF YOU COULD GIVE YOUR YOUNGER SELF A PIECE OF ADVICE, WHAT WOULD IT BE?
Be patient and believe in yourself.
Q. ARE THERE ANY EXCITING PROJECTS OR COLLABORATIONS IN THE PIPELINE YOU CAN SHARE WITH US?
I am working on a collaboration with the creator of Le Cabinet de Curiosités in the Hotel de Crillon in Paris. We are working on a small collection that will be exclusive to the boutique.
Q. LASTLY, IF YOU WEREN’T DOING THE DINEH, WHAT WOULD YOU BE DOING INSTEAD?
I come from a large family of lawyers and teachers, so I would probably be a lawyer.
