Blurring the hair and makeup edges at Parish Fashion Week
IT should come as no surprise, the blurred, undone yet thoroughly done up look at Paris Fashion Week AW21 in hair and makeup, a sign of the times when less is more and where nostalgia reigns supreme in the euphemistically ‘new normal’ of everyday life in a world one year on from the end of the old normal.
Image credit: Chanel AW21
So much on the season’s runway revealed reimagined fashion heydays of the last half of the 20th Century while makeup artists and hairstylists behind the scenes reinvented brick-red lip tones, mullet and wet-look hairstyles and the 1970s and ‘80s smoky disco eyes. While vividly contrasting tones were there throughout PFW from 1st to 10th March it was a bit more relaxed and easy and at the same time, staying true to the moodiness of these uncertain times.
Image credit: L’Oreal for Phoenix AW21
“I love contrasts,” said Chanel MUA Lucia Pica, “so for the more voluminous winter pieces I wanted a small space.” Pica had crafted sooty eyes rimmed on the upper and lower lashes with intense black pigment blended out in soft wing-shaped outer corners offset by natural complexions and dewy lips. “I don’t know if this is because of the times we live in but I wanted something warm, lively,” added artistic director Virginie Viard in her show notes.
Maison Mai AW21 collection. Image credit: Pinterest
The AW21 Phoenix collection was inspired by its 1980s look out born in the heyday of Studio 54, and PFW Partner L’Oréal MUA Patrick Glatthaar went for the strong graphic shapes of pure self-expression dominated by a sense of sexiness and vibrancy. Meanwhile Mai Li for Maison Mai inspired rich tangerine blush wedging from ear to ear for a strip of colour across cheeks and nose paired with structured clothing and loosely curled hair.
Image credit: Dior AW21
Dior’s AW21 film ‘Disturbing Beauty’ unveiled by Maria Grazia Chiuri revealed a moody fairy tale reflected in the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles, exploring the darker side of childhood candy-coated fables in sooty, smoky eyes smudged in at the inner and outer corners of the eyes and intentionally bare lashes.
“She (Maria Grazia Chiuri) wanted a strong eye, dark without being gothic,” said MUA Peter Phillips. “She didn’t want an eye that seduces.”
Image credit: Dries Van Noten AW21
While designer Dries Van Noten reimagined the punk rock era plaid with acid hued prints and hip-tied rock and roll shirts, top makeup artist Inge Grognard took his AW21 look book and executed a blurred-around-the-edges look with precision.
“To kiss, to express, to take somebody in your arms,” she said of her edit, “it represents everything that is forbidden now.”
Tags: Paris Fashion Week #cocochanel #luciapica #loreal #patrickglatthaar #maisonmai #dior #peterphilips #driesvannoten #ingegrognard
