PARIS MENSWEAR S/S 2022: YOHJI YAMAMOTO / DRIES VAN NOTEN
Yin and Yang: YOHJI YAMAMOTO’s stark newspaper prints gave a profound nod to Punk and The New Romantics while DRIES VAN NOTEN’s prints of Antwerp landscapes celebrated Spring with the definite promise of a party.
All Image and Video Credit Paris Fashion Week and Vogue UK
YOHJI YAMAMOTO
Surrealist artwork is appliqued on this two-toned suit- at Yohji Yamamoto
For this 2022 Spring collection Yohji Yamamoto did what Yohji does best: black. In a collection that was, as ever, meticulously planned and superbly executed by the high priest of Japanese style – from the way carefully chosen pieces of music served to slice the show into roughly four sections, to the way social history and symbolism were subtly interwoven into garment design and the structure of the show. Yohji’s touch was omnipresent and so was his voice – literally – singing of loneliness and trembling hands to the tune of his own melancholic guitar riffs.
For a video of the show, see:
An ivory and black suit reminiscent of a Yamamoto collection of the mid-Eighties – at Yohji Yamamoto
At times one would’ve sworn you were spotting the character of Edward Scissorhands in the way models were styled, at times the Eighties, Punk Rock, The New Romantics and even dystopian Mad Max. Models with skillfully dirtied faces and bodies were reminiscent of characters in a Dickens novel, as if they had just emerged from the depths of a coal mine. Punk hairstyles, some appearing as if heads have been dip-dyed in a pot of white paint, with emblems like Z-Z-Z shaven into models’ hair, were given the same black-and-white treatment as the garments.
Eyes and hands are appliqued on suits and accessorized with mechanics’ tools on chains as necklaces – at Yohji Yamamoto
Garments were loose-fitting and roomy and swayed around the models’ bodies, with necklaces made from clunky pliers and other mechanics’ tools on heavy chains dangling around their necks. Perhaps, with these, Yamamoto was telling us to get back to basics, to work with our hands again? The ivory and black suits at the start of the show were nostalgically reminiscent of classic Yamamoto from the mid-Eighties. Trousers were cropped at mid-calf or knee, and shoes – sturdy brogues and trainers – also got the two-toned ivory and black treatment as part of this highly accomplished piece of theatre.
Models with skillfully soiled faces and bodies mimic the paint-splattered newspaper print suits and matching shoes – at Yohji Yamamoto
Textile surfaces were distressed in true Yamamato fashion, trench coats and suits came with oversized lapels and contrasting plaques as embellishments. A classic Yamamato look, the ‘clown’s’ trousers with braces, were spotted peeking out from underneath a coat. Shirts with fringing and dangling appendices were interchanged with T-shirts sporting printed animated artwork. Fang-like studs embellished garments, to great aesthetic effect.
A roomy suit with a touch of red, Yamamoto’s favourite colour other than black, with animated artwork – at Yohji Yamamoto
A standout look came in the shape of newspaper print ensembles. The black and white palette was echoed in the hairstyles of the models, with headdresses made from ripped pieces of newspaper printed fabric. Frogging on the shirts and kimono-style shirts gave a distinctive Japanese flavour to the pieces. A striking detail was the exquisitely painted oversized blood red or white flower on the back of coats. A multicoloured floral patchwork design was another interesting take on the flower theme.
Stunning ivory and red flowers applied to the sides and sleeves of coats, with frogging details on shirts – at Yohji Yamamoto
The flower theme culminated in an ensemble of epic floral proportions! – at Yohji Yamamoto
The finale of the show comprised memorable ensembles appliqued with minimalist Surrealist artworks, in particular hands and eyes (hands perhaps symbolic for doing work and eyes for viewing the world?) The show ended with another offering of newspaper printed textile ensembles, distressed and splashed with paint, this time with the injection of some yellow and blue into the monochromatic palette. The significance of newspapers? Can we believe anything we read in them? Like the paint-splattered newspapers, is the news soiled too? You tell me!
Newspaper printed coat with a headdress made of ripped newspaper print – at Yohji Yamamoto
The addition of a splash of yellow in this waistcoat and shorts ensemble – at Yohji Yamamoto
One would never expect a one-dimensional offering from a guru like Yohji Yamamoto, and this show confirms his sage-like view of the world and of fashion in general. This is a sombre and somewhat dystopian collection, but not without flashes of optimism, looking ahead cautiously. And as ever – this beautifully curated collection offers so much more than just fashion. It gives us much food for thought.
DRIES VAN NOTEN
Bright, diagonal abstract prints embellished coats – at Dries Van Noten
(Image taken from the Dries Van Noten video presentation)
‘We want to be free to do what we want to do!… And we want to get loaded! And we want to have a good time! And that’s what we’re gonna do! … We’re gonna have a party!’ This Peter Fonda mantra from Primal Scream’s Loaded kicked off a collection that did what it set out to do: have fun. Celebrating Antwerp in all its quirky glory – from down-town urban landscapes, dockyards and building sites to industrial areas and deserted bus terminals, models strutted their stuff (albeit perhaps somewhat devoid of joy) and posed in front of all the diverse windows to the city.
For a video of the show, see:
A tangerine orange co-ord with textured embellishments and platforms – at Dries Van Noten
A blue polo neck co-ord, mimicking this Antwerp marina, worn with sunglasses and comfy sandals – at Dries Van Noten
This collection of gender-fluid pieces, in which Dries Van Noten went out of his way to blend the lines between womenswear and menswear, was blooming with Spring colours. The star of the show was the city of Antwerp, with its moody, overcast skies. Digital prints of building site cranes, trees and monuments mimicking the urban landscapes in and around the city graced silk shirts, parkas and shorts.
The must-have pieces of the collection were shirts – silky and brightly printed – at Dries Van Noten
Ready for a summer party! Gold embellishments on this exotic shirt – at Dries Van Noten
Never one to shy away from vibrant colours, Dries Van Noten’s collection showcased the full spectrum of shades, notably so the acid green and tangerine families. Chevron designs reminiscent of Seventies sportwear were also a prominent feature, as were oversized abstract new-age-type graphics on knitwear, shirts, jackets and coats. Surface embellishments like gold buttons, studs and sequins added further sparkle to a joyful collection.
Greens featured in many outfits – here in a bright emerald shade – at Dries Van Noten
(Image taken from the Dries Van Noten video presentation
A multicoloured hooded parka fit for a ride in an Antwerp fairground – at Dries Van Noten
(Image taken from the Dries Van Noten video presentation)
Shirts and trousers were cut generously, which much room to move (and dance!) in. Loungewear co-ords in bright shades rubbed shoulders with relaxed-fit camouflage jackets, trousers and boxy coats. The trademark Van Noten dust coat worn over a silk shirt and pair of printed shorts were also to be seen. And what would a cool party be without sunglasses? Cat-eyed wide-rimmed sunglasses were spotted on most of the models.
Chevron designs featured in many ensembles in this collection – at Dries Van Noten
(Image taken from the Dries Van Noten video presentation)
A shirt mimicking the mature trees in an Antwerp courtyard – at Dries Van Noten
(Image taken from the Dries Van Noten video presentation)
Let’s party! An oversized printed silk shirt – at Dries Van Noten
Camouflage was seen in many looks – here worn with a trademark Dries dust coat and emerald shirt – at Dries Van Noten
A coat echoing its environment – at Dries Van Noten
Dries Van Noten celebrated his beloved Antwerp, home to his flagship boutiques, with this offering of brightly printed pieces. This is a collection looking for a party, as the intro to the show promised. Or perhaps Dries Van Noten is telling us a party will happen naturally if we wear these vibrant pieces … Question is, are you ready to party?
