RESORT 2022: CHANEL / DIOR MEN / CHRISTOPHER JOHN RODGERS
Three designers, 3 journeys: CHANEL’s Punk and Mod-inspired ensembles transport us to beautiful Provence, DIOR MEN’s preppy pieces make us wish for a journey on the elegant Orient Express and CHRISTOPHER JOHN RODGERS’ joyful frocks simply celebrate the wondrous journey of life, wherever we are.
All Image Credit Vogue
A flapper-style lime green dress – at Christopher John Rodgers
CHANEL RESORT 2022
For highlights of Chanel Resort 2022 watch:
Virginie Viard’s Resort 2022 collection for Chanel’s was nothing short of breathtaking in every respect. The graphic, predominantly black and white (excepting the odd powder pink and lavender touch here and there) Resort 2022 collection was filmed as a runway show in the uber atmospheric cave-like enclave of the the Carrières de Lumières (Quarries of Light) in Les Baux in the painterly Provencale town of Les Baux.
Models strutted their stuff cascaded down from architecturally sculptural staircases in a deserted, excavated, chalky-coloured space, blue skies above and trees peeking over the ‘runway’. This setting provided a stage – ancient yet modern – that served to offset the monochromatic collection in unbeatable fashion. (Incidentally, artist, poet and filmmaker Jean Cocteau used these very quarries for his soul-stirring 1960s film The Testament of Orpheus.)
The collection offered its fair share of tried-and-tested Chanel trademark paraphernalia – the two-tone trims, boucle tweed boxy jackets, short pencil skirts, the iconic gold-chain-and-leather handbags, the double-chain belts, the camellias – all unmistakably Chanel. But there was a piece of more recent piece of fashion history interwoven into this collection too –Punk Rock and even some Mod elements were clearly visible in the skirts with their frayed edges, black fishnet stockings, dog collars, black macrame capes, leather fringing and pointy 1960s-inspired Mary Janes. One cannot help but reminisce over the halcyon days of the late supermodel and Chanel muse Stella Tenant and her piercings. She will have fitted into the story of this collection seamlessly!
The collection wasn’t all hard at the edges – dreamy ivory and cream floor-sweeping dresses with models sporting a flower as accessory, flaired A-line skirt and midriff-baring tops in subtle shades, watercolour-effect pastel dresses, floaty black-and-white floor length dresses, charcoal and white kaftans (delightfully ‘old school’ Resort!) also made their diaphanous debut on the chalky floors of the Quarries of Light.
DIOR MEN RESORT 2022
Kim Jones’ Resort 2022 collection for Dior Men oozes preppy elegance. Colourwise, chestnut brown, milk chocolate and caramel are supported by classic grey and charcoal, with the occasional injection of some dirty blush pink to offset the deeper shades beautifully. This uber luxe collection, perhaps more understated than Jones’ previous offerings at Dior, serves to showcase classic, traditional Dior flawlessly, and then, effortlessly, makes the transition into elegant loungewear and funky sportswear.
Slacks are roomy and ultra generous in shape and casually overhang shoes to give a super elegant, modern and relaxed feel to even the more formal ensembles. Classics like shearling jackets, bomber jackets, double-breasted (often belted safari-style), gilets, polo neck jumpers and knee-length coats rub shoulders with sporty hoodies, colour-block jumpers and stylish jacquard-knit cardigans. Designer trainers with their oversized CD logos are seen in every shape and form and accessorize the outfits, serving to give the collection an even more preppy feel.
The injection of colour into some of the knitted pieces makes for a wonderful contrast with the demure neutrals. In particular, a leopard print knitted jumper shows off its blush pink trouser counterparts to great effect. A similar feat is the chunky knit sage green leopard print cardigan with its blush pink trims – a combination made in heaven! Blood red flowers exploding over a navy jumper – reminiscent of the work of Kaffe Fassett – is another striking piece of knitwear in this range, and no doubt will sit equally well with any of the generously cut trousers in this stunning collection.
No Dior show would be complete without its share of accessories, and elegant bags of all sizes (it is a Resort collection after all!) featured in many of the looks. The Lingot bag, for example, is shaped like a bar of gold and offers a slot for Apple’s AirTags, making them traceable in case of theft – how’s that for technological advancement and aesthetics all in one product! Don’t you think that’s worth buying into? (Hint, hint…)
CHRISTOPHER JOHN RODGERS
Colour! Shape! Volume! This collection makes you jump for joy in its confident, life-celebrating vibrancy. Make no mistake, Christopher John Rodgers doesn’t design for demure wallflowers. Kaleidoscopic rainbow coloured prints rub shoulders with pinstripes, plaid and tartan, piped in the brightest green and zesty orange neon, psychedelic florals complement shimmery velour, all to joyful effect.
In a collection where lime green competes with grungy rust and oversized rainbow sequins drip off a slinky backless dress it’s quite all right for just about every rule in the book of colour to be broken. And you know what? It works!
This is a visceral collection that speaks to the core, it’s a collection that women who love Rodgers have come to expect and adore. The distorted and oversized voluminous shapes of some of the pieces are a contrast to the figure-hugging pieces like the standout piece of the collection, the vampish lime green Twenties-inspired velour dress with its handkerchief-esque bust. A body hugging zesty orange trouser suit oozes elegance and glamour – cool and classic in shape perhaps, but sizzling hot in colour!
Chanel takes us on an epic journey to the South of France, Dior Men presents us with a collection that makes us pine to pack our trunks and head for the Orient Express and Christopher John Rodgers, well … I suspect most his collection will be far more at home in a beach bar in Ibiza or on the red carpet than in the office.
In my books, these three collections do exactly what they set out to do: entice us into the relaxing, the elegant, the glamorous, the luxurious and even the sporty side of old-fashioned vacationing. After all, these are RESORT Collections! Book those seats and pack those designer bags full of designer goodies. What are you waiting for?