NEW YORK WEEK Fall 2022: The Mid-Week Report
Mermaids or Milkmaids? Mid-week at NEW YORK FASHION WEEK produced some Shapely & Shimmery Offerings and some Deliciously Demure Dresses for Damsels too.
All Image Credit NEW YORK Fashion Week
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK is well underway, the city is in the middle of six days of back-to-back, unadulterated, heavenly fashion. It’s happening from Manhattan to Brooklyn, from the Agger Fish Building to the Box Factory, from the One world Observatory to the Shed further up the West Side Highway. And the city streets are abundantly awash with fashion-adoring folks, parading their own frocks, New York-style.
Indoor mask mandates have conveniently been lifted just in time (phew!) for fashionistas to reveal their fashion-keen faces at the shows for the first time in two years (crowd sizes are still a tad restricted for safety), and fear not, for those still a little wary about venturing into the crowds there are many digital presentations scheduled to be enjoyed from the confines of one’s own home.
New York Fashion Week is a trendsetting platform for global fashion and this Fall 2022 has been no exception. We’ve spotted many a cute trend in amongst the midweek shows, trends that now doubt will be echoed across our very own high streets in no time. Without any further ado, let’s take a sneak peek at the marvels that New York Fashion Week has produced mid-week. Come on, join us and indulge in all this deliciousness!
1. Making Waves like a Mermaid
Dramatic, Theatrical, shapely (and a little reminiscent of 1980’s Thierry Mugler in its extreme curves) Area has embraced the mermaid trend, with its iridescent rainbow hues and glitter, diamonte, sequins, rhinestones and exaggerated curvy and molded shapes. Some design houses (Frederick Anderson and Batsheva, for example) opted for exploiting the azure and turquoise shimmery fabrics that reminds us of the inimitable mermaid, and others (Sergio Hudson and Carolina Herrera) played on the bias cut, body-hugging shapes with its characteristic ‘tail’ flair or exaggerated hip. Altuzarra opted for full-on ‘fish scales’ in their gorgeous oversized metallic sequin creations.
2. The Sleeve is the Thing
The gigot or leg o’ mutton sleeve has been the Fall 2022 arm adornment of choice mid-week at New York fashion Week. Exaggerated and prominent, prim-and-proper (at Batsheva, for example) or seductively off-the-shoulder (LaQuan Smith), the sleeve has been the thing. Many other designers, most notably so the inimitable Carolina Herrera and Ulla Johnson have made the voluminous sleeve one of the most characterful features of their collections for Fall.
3. Little House on the Prairy
Every now and again fashion has a love affair with the American pioneering spirit, the last time we saw the revival of the prairie dress in its demure and humble floral beauty was in 2015. This season designers have rallied around this trend of ‘sense and sensibility’ and in various midweek collections we’ve spotted the ‘modernized’ prairie dress – long, short, frilled, flaired, shaped or loose. We love Ulla Johnson’s versions – from shapely and ruched to frilled and generously sleeved, and similarly adored Markarian’s somewhat modest floral fairy dress, Batsheva’s ‘70s Elizabethan’-style versions as well as Adeam’s frilly babydol creation.
4. Crochet me an American Quilt
The film How to Make an American Quilt starts with the words, “For as long as I can remember …” and indeed, crafty crochet, patchwork and knitting have been part of fashion’s rich tapestry for as long as we can remember! This season various designers utilised age-old traditional crafty methods of creating surface patterns and textures and the offerings were spectacular. We adore Batsheva’s striking dress with its crocheted patches as well as Altazurra’s knitted and overdyed yarn creations and Frederick Anderson’s fully crocheted dresses and Fairisle-type sweaters. The extraordinary dress by Ulla Johnson with its leather patches crocheted and interlocked with muddy nude and turquoise hues and voluminous sleeves took our breath away!
5. The Call of the Wild
We dare you to name a season in the history of fashion where animal prints have not been part of the mix! New York Fashion Week designers rallied around this tried-and-tested trend, one that will indeed forever stand the test of time and created fresh-looking offerings that lured us straight into the wild. LaQuan Smith based an entire collection on animal prints: leopard, zebra, python… and joining them were the likes of Et Ochs with their dramatic large size black and white zebra dresses, Sergio Hudson with their oversized and sizzlingly glamourous leopard print dresses and Ulla Johnson with elegant stylized tiger print coats and skirts.
6. Déjà vu, Darling?
That feeling that you’ve experienced something before? Well, this season many designers looked back into the vintage archives for inspiration, and inevitable the chinzy Eighties and Nineties in all their ballroom glory featured hugely, albeit this time looking decidedly updated and ‘now’. Designers like Markarian and Carolina Herrera created off-the-shoulder, sleeveless or balconette-style corseted ballgowns that transported us straight back to a bygone era. We love Carolina Herrera’s tributes to Christian LaCroix of the late Eighties, embroidered ‘crosses’ & all!
7. Lace Me Up, Lace Me Down
Romantic, seductive and mysterious lace has always been a firm favourite with many designers, and this season the trend was visible across many brands, most notably so at Frederick Anderson and Dion Lee. We adore the ‘lacy’ gladiator boot trend that’s been sneaking back into fashion after a few years’ absence!
8. Optical Illusions (Better Known as Clever Colour Blocking)
What better way to say good-bye from New York Fashion Week Fall 2022 than by highlighting some of the most exquisite pieces we’ve seen this week, by one of New York’s very own: stalwart designer Tory Burch? We absolutely adore these stretchy, new-age shaped jersey dresses created by the queen of colour-blocking. The colour combinations are out of this world, the style-lines with their curves and scallops are inspired and the clever shapely leather belts that cinch the waists are simply the cherry on top of the most delicious cake! To say that we’re in optical illusion heaven is an understatement!