RAKUTEN TOKYO FASHION WEEK AUTUMN WINTER 2022: Mid-Week Report

by Cecile Paul · Published March 16, 2022 · Updated April 20, 2023

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Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week Delighted with Sculptural & Dramatic Ready-to-Wear Silhouettes and Textured & Theatrical Offerings Straight from the Famous Streets of Harajuku.

All Image and Video Credit Rakuten Tokyo Fashion Week, Rakuten Tokyo Facebook and Participating Designers

A striking hand-sewn, padded dress – at Seivson

Tokyo venues Shibuya Hikarie and Omotesando Hills as well as a host of other hubs all over the city are abuzz with fervent fashion action: 54 brands are showcasing their collections via physical and digital presentations. Despite the huge excitement all around, the organisers remain a little cautious when it comes to physical attendance (Japan is still under a nationwide state of emergency), hence all shows finishing by 8pm with the maximum capacity of physical events at a quarter of pre-pandemic numbers.

Brands like Beautiful People and Undercover that haven’t shown in Tokyo for years, are gracing local runways this year in Rakuten’s move to attract brands from the Paris shows to Tokyo, to huge aplomb! Many other exciting events are running in parallel: the highly anticipated ‘Fashion in Japan 1945-2020’ exhibition at the National Art Center includes a collaboration between Writtenafterwards designer Yoshikazu Yamagata and Fumito Ganryu, directed by another legend, Seiya Nakamura. One of the most-anticipated livestream shows will be late streetwear legend Takeshi Osumi’s last collection for Mistergentleman, which was designed just before Osumi passed away in January.

All-in-all, a tight schedule, jam-packed with goodies ranging from fabulous Japanese heritage classics to the gritty, grungy streetwear and modern fashion statements à la

the Harajuku Streets that Japan is so famous for. There are bold and bright colours in abundance, clashing textiles prints, tactile fabrics, exaggerated, oversized proportions and so much more pure eye candy on offer: from oversized hoodies, tech-wear, plaid-on-plaid to minimalism, designer clogs and anime accessories, this is fashion week with an unmistakable Tokyo flavour! And of course underpinning all the ‘fun’ digressions, a deep respect for the traditional basics of traditional Japanese design, tailoring, impeccable craftsmanship and fabrics.

And last but not least: there are numerous ‘Earth Friendly’, upcycling and recycling programmes that run concurrently with the main events. It seems Rakuten Tokyo has thought of every last detail to make this fall 2022 event a sustainable, fashion-conscious and unforgettable one.

But don’t take our word for it, see for yourself! Join us on a whistle-stop tour through the highlights of the first few days of Rakuten Tokyo Autumn Winter 2022.

Non Tokyo

Launched in 2013 by Ichige Ayano, Non Tokyo has gone from strength to strength. In the words of the designer, “under the concept of ‘crossover’, the sense of discomfort in contrasting is embodied and expressed in clothes.’ It’s a world where anime, frills, tulle ‘wings’ and long hoodie dresses comfortably rub shoulders, all with the underlying thread of traditional Japanese shapes running through the collection. We particularly liked the digitally printed Japanese landscape dress with its sportswear strap that’s keeping the voluminous chartreuse sleeves intact.

Watch Non Tokyo’s show here:

Orange anime and a tiered dress – at Non Tokyo

Shocking pink frills, sportswear straps and a balaclava – at Non Tokyo

Tulle ‘wings’ and a hoodie dress – at Non Tokyo

A padded scarf over a dusty pink frilled skirt and black bowling shoes – at Non Tokyo

A Japanese digital print and chartreuse sleeves – at Non Tokyo

Traditional shapes and modern fabrics – at Non Tokyo

An all-frill maxi dress – at Non Tokyo

Hiroko Koshino

One of the undisputed stalwarts of Japanese fashion and an eternal highlight of Tokyo Fashion Week is the legendary Hiroko Koshino, who boasts 6 women’s ready to wear lines: Hiroko Koshino Couture, Hiroko Koshino Premier and Hiroko Koshino amongst others, with garments – from clothing to accessories and home wear – retailed in a whopping 170 shops in Japan and abroad! The Autumn Winter 2022 collection featured divine kimono-esque creations with decidedly sporty touches, delicate lace and embroidery details, exquisite printed textiles as well as Hiroko Koshino’s trademark knitted ensembles.

Watch Hiroko Koshino’s show here:

A sporty Kimono in autumnal shades – at Hiroko Koshino

Chinzy page-boy – at Hiroko Koshino

Sporty orange trims in this elegant trouser co-ord – at Hiroko Koshino

Victorian elegance, Tokyo-style – at Hiroko Koshino

An exquisite marbled printed dress with its unconventional belt – at Hiroko Koshino

Marbled knitwear and tassles – at Hiroko Koshino

Pleats, knits and sportswear are effortlessly chic -at Hiroko Koshino

Androgynous chic: gilt trims and gold embroidery – at Hiroko Koshino

Seivson

Founded in 2017, Seivson operates in Japan, Paris and New York and their trademark ‘ambigious’ style that verges on deconstructivism was very distinctive indeed at the Fall 2022 shows. Modern and avant-garde, these slashed and padded, Japanese ‘Delft’-printed fabrics, ripped denim and bold trench coats have most certainly made their mark on the runway this season and have no doubt gained many new followers in the process.

Watch Seivsen’s show here:

Complex slashing in this Japanese ‘Delft’ dress – at Seivso

Frilly layering over a traditional trench – at Seivson

Turquoise ripped tights and a layered trench – at Seivson

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Maison Shun Ishizawa

This sophisticated brand handsomely epitomises the concepts of Japanese martial arts, sportswear, anime in their oversized denim jeans, strapped and belted tracksuit and bright shell suit tops. Rugged and super modern, Maison Shun Ishizawa is streetwear with an cheeky and elegant twist. We love the double denim, especially the ensembles with their high-waisted Eighties-inspired trousers.

Double denim with extreme dimensions – at Maison Shun Ishizawa

Strappy utility wear, cool shades and silver chains – at Maison Shun Ishizawa

Tapered jeans and a miniscule fitted jacket – at Maison Shun Ishizawa

A grasshopper green shell suit top with anime and silver sequin trainers – at Maison Shun Ishizawa

Faux fur, pockets and statement earrings – at Maison Shun Ishizawa

Nape

With 13 years’ experience in design and manufacture, Nape is a household designer brand name in Japan. We love the new-age prints and the multi-pocketed, utilitarian yet super elegant tops, the double denim ensembles, oversized silk scarves and the modern, laid-back and androgynous feel of this collection.

Double denim, jumpsuits, new-age and marbled paint-splash prints and tailoring fuse perfectly well – at Nape

Multiple pockets work a treat – at Nape

Peien

In the words of the designer, “Peien would like to make clothes that won’t wear away with time,” and looking at the Fall 2022 collection, one has to admit that each of these pieces is indeed a modern heirloom. Beautifully crafted and pleasingly balanced in colour, shape and pattern, glamorous and unique, each piece will no doubt bring some theatre to its wearer’s day or night. The Peien brand also carefully considers the concepts of slow fashion and sustainability when creating their collections – another reason to admire this brand.

Knitwear gets deconstructed to be sculptural – at Peien

Layering, pinstripes and plains in this tailored ensemble – at Peien

Knits take centre stage – at Peien

Extra-long sleeves mimic the overly long scarf and trouser hems – at Peien

Chono

We loved seeing one of the season’s key trends, plaid-on-plaid, so wonderfully personified in this Fall 2022 collection by Chono. Beautifully tailored – with clever little additions like the tiny frilled and pleated hems at the bottom of maxi skirts, worn with flat combat boots, and calico frills at the wrists of a floral printed dress – Chono’s attention to detail is very exciting! To boot, each garment includes a brand-specific ‘descriptive label’ that indicates the people involved in the creation of the garment to convey the importance of Japanese craftsmanship. In the words of the designer, “the maker imagines the joy of the wearer, and the wearer is moved by the maker’s feelings” – what better motivation for investing in this wonderful brand?

Plaid-on-plaid looks modern in this skirt-suit with its frilled hem – at Chono

Calico cuff-details in this traditional floral printed dress – at Chono

A splash of royal blue over a padded coat with its pleated, layered skirt peeking out – at Chono

Not your run-of-the-mill tweed-and-pearls ensemble – at Chono

Irenisa

One of the Irenisa’s design duo, Yu Kobayashi, worked as patternmaker for all-time Japanese legend Yohji Yamamoto before starting his own label Irenisa with business partner Yuji Abe. We particularly love the high-buttoning tailored jackets in this Fall 2022 menswear range, together with the slight vintage feel of the pieces. The injection of tomato red together with the chocolate brown, bison and olive green throughout is very striking too.

Watch Irenisa’s show here:

A striking collections of suits with very modern proportions- at Irenisa

A high-buttoning chocolate brown jacket – at Irenisa

Bed J.W. Ford

Since 2010 this label has been pushing the boundaries of innovative design and coordinated layering. The pieces are surprising simple yet complex, fragile yet bold. Bed J.W. Ford’s collection is cosy, intelligent and vaguely reminiscent of the art of dressing up – but doing it for oneself, in the comfort of your own space! We love the multicoloured shaggy fur coats, the clashing colours and recurring ‘peace’ intarsia knitted into the sweaters – the latter have never been more appropriate.