MERCEDEZ-BENZ MADRID FASHION WEEK: Spring/Summer 2023
ANDRES SARDA, CUSTO BARCELONA, LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE & More

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The Heat was On as Madrid Fashion Week Exploded with Vivacity, Glamour and Gusto. The ‘Oomph’ Factor was in Overdrive, and Collections Sizzled, Sparkled and Stunned beyond all Expectations.

Think High Voltage Energy, Passion and Pizzazz mixed with Copious Quantities of Glamour, Elegance and Style – and you’re Halfway There.

 

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Image Credit Madrid Fashion Week
Drama and theatrics – at Andrés Sardá

 

Madrid put on a show, and boy, was it HOT, HOT, HOT! The uber-stylish Spanish capitol’s fashion offerings proved to be one of the standout fashion weeks in the global calendar to date.

An exuberant, scintillating and simply sizzling 76th edition of Madrid Fashion Week saw a whopping 41 designers, of which 10 were up-and-coming talent, showcase their exceptional collections mid-September 2022. Each collection packed a punch, with energy and passion seldom seen in one singular fashion week. Historically the Spanish fashion week has always been guaranteed to enthral with boldness and vibrancy, but the Spring Summer collections on offer this time around literally made us do the Spring shimmy on the spot!

There were trends aplenty! If there was one overriding trend that epitomised Madrid Fashion Week, it was glamour with a capital ‘G’. Designers clearly couldn’t resist the urge to create the dreamiest of ballgowns, exquisite lingerie and other fantasy luxe pieces. The swimwear creations were also otherworldly. For starters, all things sparkly and metallic shimmered their way into many collections. High on theatrics and drama, many collections were indulgently designed with tiered frills, sculptural sleeves and exaggerated collars, others were boldly asymmetrical and abundantly embellished with the most sumptuous feathers, lace and tulle. All exceedingly delicious!

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A raspberry pink cut-out dress has classical overtones – at Custo Barcelona

Many collections showcased avant-garde creations and jaw-dropping sculptural silhouettes. The trend for sheer and transparent fabrics we’ve seen emerging at other fashion weeks in 2022 was alive and well in Madrid too, with plenty sun-kissed skin on display. Feminine and overtly romantic lingerie-inspired pieces were a feature, juxtaposing the corseted and structured ballgowns. Grunge – as seen in previous seasons’ collections globally – simply didn’t make the cut!

As for colours, the boldness, vibrancy and effervescence on display in these collections were second to none – an unashamed use of deeply saturated shades, from shocking pink to tropical tangerine, eye-popping neon to sensual nude and virginal white. A few pastels also made it onto some of the designer colour palettes. Prints (bar a few animal prints and a tad of tartan) as such didn’t feature much, it was the monotones and block colours that dominated.

There were many stand-out collections among the already exceptional line-up. Andres Sarda’s show-stopping collection featuring exquisite lingerie and theatrical shapes, was undoubtedly one of the shows with the biggest ‘wow’-factor! Similarly collections by legendary Spanish brand Custo Barcelona and Lola Casademunt by Maite were exceptional.

Take a seat and enjoy the mad colours, the divine designs and just generally, the uncapped joy of our favourite collections. We’re also throwing in a handful of trends as spotted at the shows, just to whet your appetite for Spring Summer 2023. But words simply don’t do justice to the unlimited joy and cheeriness of Madrid Fashion Week, sit back and soak up the vibes! Oh, and we’ve also earmarked a few of our ultimate favourite live and digital shows: get ready for glitz and glamour seldom seen before!

Watch Redondo’s show here:

https://www.ifema.es/en/mbfw-madrid/designers/redondo-brand

Watch Paloma Suarez’ show here:

Watch Montenegro’s show here:

Watch Ulises Mérida’s show here:

https://www.ifema.es/en/mbfw-madrid/designers/ulises-merida

 

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Moulin Rouge influences – at Andrés Sardá

 

STANDOUT COLLECTIONS

1. ANDRES SARDA

A tribute to the golden era of the big screen, Andres Sarda’s SS 2023 show entitled Le Cinema features divas in black and white gowns depicting the glamorous and uber-elegant era of black and white movies. The collection then moves on to depict avant-garde art documentaries, playing cleverly with geometric shapes and volumes and painterly colours, reminiscent of artists like Miro. The next genre is musicals, inspired by the likes of Moulin Rouge and Cats, with floaty lace, tulle, satin and other sumptuous cloth generously on display. Next up the world of fantasy films, complete with fairy-tale princesses and witches. We absolutely adored the fun and frivolity, glamour and fantasy of it all, with this collection showcasing so many of the SS 2023 trends: the unashamed display of skin, the vibrancy, the shimmer & sparkle and the glamour factor in double digits! Bring on Spring Summer 2023!

Watch Andres Sardes’ show here:

https://www.ifema.es/en/mbfw-madrid/designers/andres-sarda

Andres Sarda MBFW Madid 2023

Fairy tale touches – at Andrés Sardá

Andres Sarda MBFW Madid 2023

Miró-esque shapes and shades – at Andrés Sardá

Andres Sarda MBFW Madid 2023

Fairy-tale princess – at Andrés Sardá

Andres Sarda MBFW Madid 2023

Catwoman! – At Andrés Sardá

Andres Sarda MBFW Madid 2023

Painterly inspiration – at Andrés Sardá

Andres Sarda MBFW Madid 2023

A Miró mobile atwork? At Andrés Sardá

 

2. CUSTO BARCELONA

A hugely respected and successful brand, Custo Barcelona, wowed on the catwalk with their innovative design and risqué fabrics. These aren’t pieces for the shy wallflower! Instead they’re made for the bold, confident and modern woman with their architectural lines and strategic cut-outs, revealing fabulous sun-kissed skin. Sinuous, feminine and vibrant, this is a collection that shouts Joy, Fun, Spring and Summer. Colourful jacquard fabrics, metallics, sparkle and shimmer in seasonal colours sapphire, sky blue, orange topaz, tourmaline fuchsia, citrine yellow, amethyst purple, diamond white and onyx black looked striking in the bikinis, micro, mini & maxi dresses, oversized trousers and miniscule tops. All very inspiring, all very Spanish, all very cheery – a collection for a confident woman who knows how to live life to the full!

Watch Custo Barcelona’s show here:

https://www.ifema.es/en/mbfw-madrid/designers/custo-barcelona

Custo Barcelona MBFW Madrid 2023

Fabulous lines, metallics and branded straps in this asymmetrical creation – at Custo Barcelona

Custo Barcelona MBFW Madrid 2023

Sky-blue metallics – at Custo Barcelona

Custo Barcelona MBFW Madrid 2023

Pop-art and sunshine yellow work well together – at Custo Barcelona

 

3. LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE

A legendary brand in Spain, Lola Casamunt by Maite’s SS 2023 collection is as imaginative as a great dream: it’s made up of an inspired language of the season’s colours fuchsia, orange, mauve, gold, some zebra print, jacquard, studs, pleats and sequins to put a finishing sparkle on things … All in all, one of those outstanding collections that fully epitomises Spring and Summer, and if this is what SS 2023 is going to look like, we can’t wait!

Watch Lola Casademunt by Maite’s show here:

https://www.ifema.es/en/mbfw-madrid/designers/lola-casademunt

LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE MBFW Madrid 2023

Metallic glamour in this one-shoulder gown – at Lola Casademunt by Maite

LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE MBFW Madrid 2023

Pleated simplicity in this column dress – at Lola Casademunt by Maite

LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE MBFW Madrid 2023

Magic and sparkle! At Lola Casademunt by Maite

LOLA CASADEMUNT BY MAITE MBFW Madrid 2023

Tropical zebra print wowed in may colourways – at Lola Casademunt by Maite

 

TRENDS, TRENDS, TRENDS!

Trend spotters marvelled in all the different interpretations of the new season’s trends. In general pieces were beautifully structured and tailored to perfection, stalwart classics were reinvented and coquettish cocktail dresses and dreamy ballgowns alike graced many collections. (Do the designers perchance know something about Spring Summer 2023 we don’t? … Are they foreseeing unlimited festivities?) Shimmery metallics, sparkly sequins, sumptuous lace, tulle and feathers all vied for attention. Sculptural silhouettes and avant-garde shapes were to be seen in many of the offerings, as was the trend for transparency. Colours were bold and confident: all the neons were to be seen, primary block colour shades of red, blue and green shone brightly, as did the season’s coveted shades shocking pink, tangerine orange, chartreuse, lavender and sky blue.

 

1. A MAGPIE FOR METALLICS, SHIMMER AND SPARKLE

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

Molten metallics shine in this cheeky little cocktail dress – at Maison Mesa

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

A crushed silver metallic foil skirt – at Fely Campo

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

A column dress with a twist in red hot rust – at Hanibal Laguna

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

A scultural work of art in metallics – at David Moss

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

A metallic acqua dress with a strategic cut-out – at Pedro del Hierro

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

Shimmery sparkle and evocative transparency in this little 60s-inspired sheath dress -at Redondo

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

Foil gets the psychedelic treatment – at Felix Ramiro

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

Elegance and ease in this stunning coral tunic dress – at Odette Alvarez

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

Silver foil pleating in this asymmetrical two-piece – at Corsicana

Maison Maica - MBFW Madrid

Silver metallic boots round off this vintage-inspired dress – at Pilar Dalba

 

2. FRILLS, FEATHERS AND FESTIVE TULLE

Duyos MBFW Madrid

Layers of sumptuous frills in this dreamy tulle gown – at Duyos

Duyos MBFW Madrid

Feathery, fringy embellishments soften this cute little strappy dress – at Odette Alvarez

Duyos MBFW Madrid

Copious layers of sunshine yellow tulle in this festive ensemble – at María Lafuente

Duyos MBFW Madrid

White lingerie works beautifully well with a fairy-tale tulle skirt in shocking pink – at Andres Sarda

 

3. FETISH & FUN: FLAUNT SOME FABULOUS FLESH!

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A corset, cut-outs and clever slits – at Rafael Urquizar

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Black lycra sleeves and pearls accentuate this virginal white, flesh-exposing ensemble – at Andres Sarda

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Fantasy feathers and a head-mask – at Claro Couture

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Who needs a skirt with sleeves like these? At Hannibal Laguna

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Strategic stars – at Mush

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Exquisite surface design and a most flattering cut in this elegant one-piece swimsuit – at Dolores Cortes

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A Roman-esque feel to these sizzling golden hotpants and sheath tunic ensemble – at Maison Mesa

 

4. SCULPTURAL AND STATUESQUE

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Asymmetry, dapper feathers and gladiator boots make for a striking combo – at Malne

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A sculptural ballet pink shawl adds to the charm of this statuesque ensemble – at Redondo

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Sculptural! At Ulises Merida

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Futurist shoulders and a lavender headscarf work wonderfully together – at Alvaro Calafat

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A sculptural metallic cobalt blue dress with stunning proportions – at Isabel Sanchis

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Of sculptural proportions! At David Moss

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A delicately cut-out buttercup coloured dress with classic Greek overtones – at Duarte

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Gold satin and a sumptuous hem in this elegant empire-line cocktail dress – at Maison Mesa

 

5. COVETED COLOUR CUES

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Neon and lace! Fresh, delicate and a fantastic combination – at María Lafuente

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Sleek and glamorously elegant for the hostess with the ‘mostess’! At Rafael Urquizar

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A touch of 60s nostalgia in this little psychedelic minidress with its metallic boots – at Odette Alvarez

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Rainbow shades in this painterly suit -at Felix Ramiro

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An inspired colour combo – at Ulises Merida

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Sleek theatrics in this sizzling hot pink and red suit – at Redondo

 

6. AND CINDERELLA WILL GO TO THE BALL!

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A dreamy fantasy gown in salmon pink satin with stunning sequinned details – at Hannibal Laguna

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A virginal white bridal-inspired satin gown with striking flower skirt and train – at Hannibal Laguna

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Sumptuous folds of lavender satin and all legs! At Hannibal Laguna

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Coral pink roses cover the essentials! – At Hannibal Laguna

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A floaty organza creation is topped off with an asymmetrical metallic belt – at Alvaro Calafat

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A voluminous old gold ballgown with padded cape – at Roberto Diz

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An ethereal and sparkly gown – at Fely Campo

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Roses, roses, roses! One of the most romantic ballgowns at the shows – at Hannibal Laguna

 

Cecile Paul

Author at Pynck

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