SOUTH AFRICA FASHION WEEK S/S 2023
When in Doubt, Overdress! More is More at SAFW, with Designers Paying Homage to the African Continent in all its Abundant Splendour.
Image Credit SAFW
Bronze-age sculpture! At Viviers
Image Credit SAFW and Participating Designers
Now in its 26th year, South Africa’s top fashion design platform, South Africa Fashion Week (SAFW), showcased 39 choice collections, featuring a contingent of local designers and models, many from neighbouring Mozambique and Europe. The week saw Johannesburg’s prestigious Mall Of Africa transformed into a hub of all things fashionable and aesthetic, with a definitive nod to sustainability within the fashion industry as well as much emphasis on global collaboration and the sharing of knowledge and innovation amongst creatives.
The third fashion collaboration with Italy (as part of ‘I Ponti della Moda’ or ‘Fashion Bridges’ project) between the Italian embassy and its partners Polimoda Firenze, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana and the Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana in collaboration with South African Fashion Week, introduced the new collections of Italian designer, Federico Cina, a finalist in the 2022 LVMH Prize for young fashion designers and South African Lezanne Viviers, who debuted her Viviers Studio signature collection at Milan Fashion Week earlier this year. A first ever collaboration between the Mozambique and South African Fashion Weeks wrapped up SS23 with a grand finale showcasing of 3 Mozambican signature collections.
There’s plenty to marvel at and you’re cordially invited to join us for a little tour of the extraordinary highlights of the week.
BACKSTAGE AND FRONT ROW
But first, here’s a little sneak peek as to what happened behind the scenes and front row.
HAIR AND BEAUTY
Armies of talented hair and beauty stylists worked their magic behind the scenes.
THE DESIGNERS
A whopping 39 designers presented their collections!
VIVIERS
@viviers.studio
A standout collection at the shows was that of Johannesburg-based brand Viviers, which recently made its debut at Milan Fashion Week. A tactile, yarn-focussed collection, the brand collaborated with Mohair SA and Cape Wools to create an offering that’s primarily focussed on utilising the raw textile elements of their native South Africa. The result? An avant-garde, magical and wonderfully theatrical set of pieces that made us sit bolt-upright and take notice.
Watch Viviers’ show here: https://www.safashionweek.co.za/viviers-studio
At Viviers
At Viviers
At Viviers
At Viviers
At Viviers
CYLA CONSOLVES
Known for casual clothing with a signature hand-crafted twist, cosy knits and easy layering, Cyla Consolves delivered a palette of soft yellow and lavender for SAFW S/S 2023 and added a good dose of voluminous tulle as embellishments to the layering. Velvet rubbed shoulders with tulle, and underwear became outerwear – all very tactile and delicious!
At Cyla Consolves
At Cyla Consolves
At Cyla Consolves
E_MANIA
The brand prides itself on its ability to ‘reinvent African idioms in a new guise’ – and that’s exactly what they’ve achieved: bold, striking pieces that are as contemporary and international as they are African-influenced.
At E_Mania
SILVER MAGPIE
We just adore Silver Magpie’s nostalgic, hand-crafted look and feel! Appliques, embroidery and patchwork add to the upcycled effect of this slow-fashion brand.
At Silver Magpie
MUNKUS
@munkus_
This fabulous collection – reminiscent of Sassy Soweto street fashion, combines bold colour and print with retrospective silhouettes. It’s a feast for the eye! We love the broad-shouldered pea-coat and the inspired kaleidoscope of green, pink and patterns across the rest of the range.
At Munkus
At Munkus
FIKILE SOKHULU
@sokhulufikile
A brand whose signature is naturally feminine delivered a range of romantic, flouncy avant-garde ensembles in neutrals – echru, beige, black and white, as well as striking primary shades – red, shocking pink and cobalt blue. With much detail in the sleeves, collars, necklines and skirts, this is without a shadow of a doubt one of the most striking collections at SAFW S/S 2023.
Watch Fikile Sokhulu’s show here: https://www.safashionweek.co.za/fikile-zamagcino-sokhulu
At Fikile Sokhulu
At Fikile Sokhulu
At Fikile Sokhulu
SIPHO MBUTHO
@siphombutho
The timeless, ageless androgyny of this range is, according to the designer, ‘inspired by art and architecture’. The clean lines, unfussy cuts and easy-to-wear quality of these stunning ensembles in their soft pastels, are in a class of their own. This is an extremely elegant range, practical and aesthetic, and one that will flatter so many body shapes.
At Sipho Mbutho
At Sipho Mbutho
MANTSHO
@palesamokubung
@mantsholifestyle
A brand that recently collaborated with H&M, delivered yet again a fine balance between form and function. The pieces that are evidently, joyously of the African continent, are inspired by “globalised African nomads who remain reverent of their own unique culture”, according to the designer. We adore the period frills and tiers that adorn the collars, cuffs and skirts of these regal ensembles.
At Mantsho
BLACK COFFEE
@blackcoffeefashionza
The extraordinary geometry, avant-garde silhouettes and intricate details – printing, pleating, draping, embroidery, ruching and scalloping – make this a standout collection at SAFW 2023. The simplicity (and curiously, the complexity) of this collection is awe-inspiring, the pieces seem effortless to wear. These layered ensembles in crisp cotton and monochromatic shades are more reminiscent of wearable works of art than fashion.
Watch Black Coffee’s show here: https://www.safashionweek.co.za/black-coffee
At Black Coffee
At Black Coffee
At Black Coffee
At Black Coffee
RUBICON
@rubiconclothing
Known for their timeless design and impeccable tailoring, Rubicon sculpted ultra-feminine silhouettes for SAFW 2023. We particularly adore the spring-yellow-waisted dress, very fresh!
At Rubicon
At Rubicon
FEDERICO CINA
Hats off to Italian designer Federico Cina, with his collection of tactile knits – patchwork, intarsia, cables and jacquard – that are cleverly juxtaposed with super sharp tailoring. The deconstructed denim dress-and-trouser ensemble with its frayed hems is simply divine.
At Federico Cina
At Federico Cina
At Federico Cina
BELLHAUSEN
@bellhausen
This is a powerful, contemporary and confident collection – and a very cheery one too! Striking primary colours sit side by side in a collection that shouts for joy. A standout piece is a maxi dress with its slit up to the armpit, in the brightest emerald, cobalt, gold and red – just adorable.
At Bellhausen
At Bellhausen
ISABEL DE VILLIERS
With an effortless and modern design ethos, Isabel de Villiers created a range of brightest jewel shades for all body shapes.
At Isabel de Villiers
At Isabel de Villiers
At Isabel de Villiers
BOYDE
If pared-down minimalism, quality, style and comfort are your thing, this is the brand for you! Immaculately sharp tailoring combines with inspired use of colour and pattern to deliver a range that is eternally stylish and elegant. We adore the emerald green shirt and high-waisted trousers.
At Boyde
GUGUBYGUGU
@gugubygugu
‘Unapologetically bold and genderless’ is how the brand describes itself. Colourful and crafty details combine to create a range that can indeed be worn by people of all ages, genders and sizes. We adore the vibrancy of the beaded neck-pieces!
At Gugubygugu
At Gugubygugu
NTANDO XV
@ntandoxv
Graphic, bold and extremely striking in its effortless simplicity is how one may describe this collection by Ntando XV. For a brand that’s as famous for its innovative shapes and silhouettes as for forward-looking design, this range ticks all the boxes.
At Ntando XV
At Ntando XV
At Ntando XV
HELON MELON
@helonmelonct
Quirky, bold, ultra-wearable and fun, this range of padded co-ords and separates in grey and a few accent shades truly make one wish for all weather! Practical and effortless to import into any existing wardrobe, this range is sophisticated chic, par excellence.
At Helon Melon
At Helon Melon
MABENNA
Feminine and flouncy, light and airy, this range with its fabulous sugary pastel florals in organza and chiffon lets one yearn for cocktails on moonlit terraces! But these beauties would be equally at home on the red carpet.
At Mabenna
At Mabenna
At Mabenna
At Mabenna
ARTAE
We adore this ready-to-wear, contemporary range with its painterly surface patterning and cobalt blue footwear and couture overtones.
At Artae
CUCCLA
This Mozambiquan brand’s collection for SAFW oozes elegance, sophistication and understated luxe. We love the sculptural silhouettes and flattering necklines in their subtle, tropical shades and patterns.
At Cuccla
OYAMA GONINTEBE
Bold, vibrant and contemporary, these statement pieces by Oyama Gonintebe with their unique printed patterns will make every opportunity to dress up into something memorable and special. We especially adore the asymmetry of the pleating feature on the lavender & emerald ensemble.
At Oyama Ginintebe
SILIKA
Clothes for a contemporary African princess! Bolder than bold colours and patterns, with exaggerated hip and collar curves, these are pieces for the confident woman who most certainly wants to stand out in a crowd.
At Silika
At Silika
MICHAEL LUDWIG STUDIO
@michaelludwigstudio
This brand’s slow-fashion and gender-fluid ethos in combination with their signature East-Meets-Africa silhouettes delivered a range of utterly covetable wrap tweed jackets worn over harem pants, ruched-side jackets & trousers and shirt sleeves embellished with exquisite detail. We adore the sky blue and lavender colourways for Spring/Summer.
At Michael Ludwig Studio
At Michael Ludwig Studio
ESSIE APPAREL
@essie_apparel
Fashion-forward and sculptural design combined with the clever use of colour created this futuristic range of jackets, dresses, skirts and trousers with their sculptural cut-outs. These sharply tailored and subtly coloured ensembles make very bold statements indeed.
At Essie Apparel
At Essie Apparel
RESEARCH UNIT
A self-described ‘utilitarian’ brand of clothing made in the age-old Japanese slow fashion, Research Unit delivered an offering of beautiful quality cottons across very interesting cuts (we adore the extra-long sleeves on the cropped waist shirt, amongst others).
At Research Unit
EPHYMOL
@ephymol
Ready for action? Elegant and relaxed tailoring in decidedly camouflage hues at Ephymol.
At Ephymol
THE BAM COLLECTIVE
@bamcollective
A brand known for its extraordinary design acumen, bold use of colour, extravagant accessories and inclusivity of age, shape and gender, The Bam Collective presented a striking offering of curvy and sharp silhouettes in festive metallics and monochromatic shades.
Watch The Bam Collective’s show here: https://www.safashionweek.co.za/the-bam-collective
At The Bam Collective
At The Bam Collective
At The Bam Collective
At The Bam Collective
FUATA MOYO
Art or fashion? This brand is big on recycling and upcycling, and in creating works of art out of the ordinary and the everyday. We adore their graffiti-ed surface designs as much as the bold silhouettes of the ensembles.
At Fuata Moyo
At Fuata Moyo
At Fuata Moyo
At Fuata Moyo
SUN GODDESS
A luxury lifestyle and fashion brand, Sun Goddess uses a unique palette to celebrate regal Africa. Their signature handcraft and prints embellish many of the striking pieces.
At Sun Goddess
STREETSTYLE
We’ll leave you with a few impressions of what we spotted alongside the runways.
