SOUTH AFRICA MENSWEAR WEEK (SAMW) 2023

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SAMW Packed a Punch with Stand-Out Offerings ranging from Signature Haute Couture to Inspiring Resort Wear and Gutsy Streetwear.

Image Credit Rufftung on Instagram
Modern day mermaid!

 

Image Credit participating designers, Instagram and Facebook.

 

Over 50 of the most established designers in South Africa, flanked by a further 28 graduate designers, showed their collections in Cape Town during April 2023 at the 17th edition of the much anticipated SAMW. Some of the biggest names in SA fashion today – the likes of celebrity designer Gavin Rajah, couturier of over three decades Jacques La Grange, St Martins trained and John Galliano protégé Malcolm Kluk of Kluk CGDT, and beloved local brand Habits strutted their stuff to a star-studded audience in ultra-glamorous Cape Town amidst much champagne, a gentle sea breeze, a host of sensational models, designers, photographers, stylists, hair and beauty specialists and of course an entourage of fashionistas. The glam factor hit the treble digits!

Womenswear, menswear and gender-fluid collections were showcased, ranging from proper couture (Simply Vermeulen, Jacques La Grange, Gavin Rajah, Kluk CGDT etc) to ready-to-wear (Habits, Stefania Morland, Shana, Rosey & Vittorio, etc) and streetwear (Influhks, Cultish, Redbat etc). Standout collections include exceptional offerings by talented newcomers Ruald Rheeder, Lara Klawikowski, Xolani Mawande and Nao Serati.

Needless to say, the collections shouted with joy, beamed with the brightest of colours, boasted extraordinary surface design, patterning and exquisitely crafted details and simply left us gagging to update our wardrobes! Layering is king, more is more, colour is the new black! We’ve picked out our favourite bits and invite you to come along on this journey of African delights.

Image Credit Kluk CGDT on Instagram
The glam factor is sky-high!

 

KLUK CGDT

@klukcgdt, https://klukcgdt.com/boutique/
St Martins graduate Malcolm Kluk (who did his apprenticeship under none other than maestro John Galliano) and his partner have built a fashion empire in Cape Town that has, over the years, dressed celebrities like Kate Moss, Beyonce and Charlize Theron; their clothes regularly featuring in global fashion magazines, from Elle to Wallpaper and Harper’s Bazaar. Their design ethos of making fashion into an unforgettable experience by presenting the best quality fabric and design (they produce 3 ready-to-wear collections per year), fit and service – all in unbeatable, sexy and glamorous settings – has proven a recipe for longevity and success. A much-beloved institution in Cape Town, Kluk CGDT delivered yet another sensational offering at SAMW 2023.

Image Credit Kluk CGDT on Facebook
Where couture meets ready-to-wear – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
A dreamy digital print for an African princess – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Black roses create a sculptural statement piece – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Lace and lace anchored in lime green mules – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
The unbeatable combo of red and shocking pink lace with ultra-generous sleeves – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
And off to work we go! At Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Sexy Greek goddess siren! At Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Angelic lace – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Enveloped in Chantilly lace – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Solid sleeves and transparent skirt in inspired hues – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Subtle shades and a strong silhouette – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
Easy to wear and utterly flattering – at Kluk CGDT

Image Credit Kluk CGDT
A co-ord that shouts for joy – at Kluk CGDT

 

LARA KLAWIKOWSKI

@lara_klawikowski
Says sustainable fashion designer Lara Klawikowski of her acclaimed collection that was inspired by her Polish heritage and Polish folk-art, “The patterns were cut to avoid any further off-cuts ending up in landfills. It’s a tactile collection with an unusual colour palette, inspired by the colours of local fynbos. The proportions are unpredictable but flattering.” We can’t agree more.

Image Credit IOL. Picture: Simon Deiner/SDR Photo
The joy of spring pastels and petals! At Lara Klawikowski

Image Credit Lara Klawikowski on Instagram
An elegant silhouette covered in cheery flowers – at Lara Klawikowski

Image Credit Lara Klawikowski on Instagram
Sea goddess – at Lara Klawikowski

Image Credit Lara Klawikowski on Instagram
A delicate white lace dress for for an underwater princess! At Lara Klawikowski

Image Credit Lara Klawikowski on Instagram
Bold red frills make a confident statement – at Lara Klawikowski

 

STEFANIA MORLAND

@stefaniamorland
The undisputed queen of colour and known for her bold combinations in the most exquisite silk, chiffon, organza and tulle, covered in intricate hand details and embellishments, Stefania Morland has been dressing the who’s who of South Africa and beyond for decades. Her glamourous, elegant, exotic creations need no introduction, and this SAMW collection from Stefania’s stables is one to drool over.

 

Image Credit Stefania Morland on Instagram
An ultra-flattering maxi dress in a patchwork of vibrant colours, with tangerine piping – at Stefania Morland

Image Credit Stefania Morland on Instagram
The designer backstage – at Stefania Morland

Image Credit Stefania Morland on Instagram
Infinite attention to detail in this chiffon dress – at Stefania Morland

Image Credit Stefania Morland on Instagram
A symphony of colour and pattern at Stefania Morland

Image Credit Stefania Morland on Instagram
Bold colour combinations – at Stefania Morland

 

SHANA MORLAND

@shanamorland
Following in her famous designer mother’s footsteps, Shana Morland has carved out a niche in the bespoke evening, bridal and occasion wear market in South Africa. Colourful and vibrant, youthful and edgy, Shana’s designs are infinitely covetable.

Image Credit Shana Morland on Instagram
A symphony of exotic creations in the boldest of colours – at Shana Morland

Image Credit Shana Morland on Instagram
The designer taking a twirl backstage – at Shana Morland

Image Credit Shana Morland on Instagram
A multi-frilled dress in inspired chartreuse, pink and blue – at Shana Morland

Image Credit Shana Morland on Instagram
Backstage – infinite hand-crafted details – at Shana Morland

Image Credit Shana Morland on Instagram
The embellishments are too exquisite for words! At Shana Morland

Image Credit Shana Morland on Instagram
Easy-to-wear, cheery sun dresses, perfect for a summer getaway (or Cape Town stay-at-home!) At Shana Morland

 

RUFFTUNG

@rufftung
Says Bridget Pickering, Rufftung’s creative director, “Our AW23 collection celebrates wearable shimmer and shine, easy silhouettes and bold prints. In our Ruff Tung world, winter doesn’t equate to sombre colour palettes.” With ready-to-wear sequin garments – slouchy kimono coats, unstructured blazers, palazzos and other ultra-comfy and versatile pieces, the brand stays true to its commitment to both style, comfort and wearability.

Image Credit Rufftung on Instagram
A twisted-front, ultra-flattering sequin dress – at Rufftung

Image Credit Rufftung on Instagram
Exotic and boho – at Rufftung

Image Credit Rufftung on Instagram
Rainbow palazzos and a floral coat – at Rufftung

Image Credit IOL
The designer and her sequin tribe – at Rufftung

 

GAVIN RAJAH

@gavinrajah
Gavin Rajah is another household brand synonymous with luxury in the world of slow fashion in South Africa, known for their exquisite one-off, hand-crafted pieces made from the finest fabrics. With a loyal clientele Gavin Rajah manufactures his pieces in Cape Town and regularly shows at the couture shows in Paris.

 

Image Credit Gavin Rajah on Instagram
Silk embroidered dress in mocha, with mirror inserts at the hems – at Gavin Rajah

Image Credit Gavin Rajah on Instagram
A white organza dress with accessories by Ida Elsje – at Gavin Rajah

Image Credit Gavin Rajah on Instagram
Seventies-inspired frilled tier dress in cotton – at Gavin Rajah

 

JACQUES LA GRANGE

@jacques_lagrange_couture
The ‘King of Couture’ in South Africa, Jacques La Grange, is celebrating just over three hugely successful decades in fashion. Having dressed innumerable celebrities over the years, Jacques La Grange’s 2023 range for SAMW – a confident symphony in black – is testimony to the incredible talent of this designer.

Image Credit IOL, Picture Ayande Ndamane
A symphony of black – at Jacques La Grange SAMW 2023

Image Credit IOL
A sweeping red couture dress with oversized bow – at Jacques La Grange Couture

 

NAO SERATI

@naoserati
Nao Serati’s collection is a tribute to the black punk culture, using leather and fabric to resemble skin and the muscular structure of the male body. Dresses are feminine and fragile, sexy and boundary-pushing. We adore the denim co-ord with its punk-like beads!

Image Credit Nao Serati on Instagram
A dreamy frilled and tiered sky blue creation – at Nao Serati

Image Credit Nao Serati on Instagram
Denim – but different! At Nao Serati

Image Credit Nao Serati on Instagram
A sequin sea-green coat over denim and chiffon layering – at Nao Serati

Image Credit Nao Serati on Instagram, Africa Is Now Magazine, Fashion & Art Direction Chrisna De Bruin
Where denim meets leather – at Nao Serati

Image Credit Nao Serati on Instagram
Backstage in leopard – at Nao Serati

Image Credit IOL, Picture Simon Deiner/SDR Photo
Sleek and sharp in belted, floor-sweeping leather – at Nao Serati

Image Credit Nao Serati on Instagram
Tweed boucle – at Nao Serati

 

HABITS

@Habitsfashion_sa
A much-loved and award-winning brand that was established over 3 decades ago, has consistently delivered ultra-wearable, super-elegant clothes. They opened their show with much aplomb: the Cape Town Marching Band very appropriately heralded in this military-inspired range for SAMW 2023.

Image Credit Habits on Instagram
Gold braiding, frogging and all things military-inspired embellish this striking ensemble – at Habits

Image Credit Habits on Instagram
Military-inspired, but with a twist – at Habits

Image Credit Habits on Instagram
A pirate coat for modern days – at Habits

 

RUALD RHEEDER

@rualdrheeder
Ruald Rheeder’s collection ‘Dark Angel’ with its all-black pieces and clean silhouettes, textures of leather, faux fur, velvet, suede, chiffon and tulle made a big impression on the runway. We adore the finale, leopard print – head to toe!

Image Credit IOL, Picture Phando Jikelo
Leopard print from head to toe – at Ruald Rheeder

Image Credit Ruald Rheeder on Instagram
Black velvet has never looked more elegant – at Ruald Rheeder

Ruald Rheeder on Instagram
A striking silhouette in floor-sweeping jersey – at Ruald Rheeder

 

ROSEY & VITTORI

@roseyandvittori
Contemporary, edgy, verging on the grungy side of things, Rosey & Vittori’s offering for SAMW 2023 came in the shape of bold, brave colour and texture combinations, quirky silhouettes and inspired accessories. We adore the Renaissance digital print on the coat and trouser co-ord.

Image Credit IOL, Picture Phando Jikelo
A wild and wonderful mix of colours, patterns and textures – at Rosey & Vittori

Image Credit Rosey & Vittori
A standout-piece, this Renaissance print co-ord

Image Credit Rosey & Vittori
A checkered cobalt blue and white coat and hat are a striking contrast with the patterned shirt and green cargo pants – at Rosey and Vittori

 

XOLANI MAWANDE

@xolani.mawande
If polka dots are your thing, this is the collection for you! Fun, playful, cleverly co-ordinated and very covetable, colourful and bolder than bold!

Image Credit Xolani Mawande on Instagram
Monochromatic and graphic – at Xolani Mawande

Image Credit Xolani Mawande on Instagram
Fine and dandy – at Xolani Mawande

 

IMPRINT

@imprint_za
“The collection tells the story of different African characters in different parts of the world, at different times, from different tribes. All inspired by the idea of coming home”, says designer Mzukisi Mbane. Known for their extraordinary prints every season, Imprint gave us, yet again, a collection to jump for joy about. Cheery, inspired and festive, the silhouettes range from 60s-inspired sheath dresses and knee boots to Japanese-style obi belts and beautifully tailored tweed coats. We especially adore the yellow and purple knitted ensemble!

 

Image Credit Imprint on Instagram
Sunshades finish off the printed and patterned ensembles – at Imprint

Image Credit Imprint on Instagram
Joyful colours and patterns – at Imprint

Image Credit Imprint on Instagram
World influences in design – at Imprint

Image Credit Imprint on Instagram
Inspired silhouettes – at Imprint

Image Credit Imprint on Instagram
Intarsia knitted ensemble – at Imprint

Image Credit Imprint on Instagram
Prints, prints, prints – at Imprint

 

Goodbye from South Africa Menswear Week!

Cecile Paul

Author at Pynck

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