SOUTH AFRICA MENSWEAR WEEK (SAMW) 2023
SAMW Packed a Punch with Stand-Out Offerings ranging from Signature Haute Couture to Inspiring Resort Wear and Gutsy Streetwear.
Image Credit participating designers, Instagram and Facebook.
Over 50 of the most established designers in South Africa, flanked by a further 28 graduate designers, showed their collections in Cape Town during April 2023 at the 17th edition of the much anticipated SAMW. Some of the biggest names in SA fashion today – the likes of celebrity designer Gavin Rajah, couturier of over three decades Jacques La Grange, St Martins trained and John Galliano protégé Malcolm Kluk of Kluk CGDT, and beloved local brand Habits strutted their stuff to a star-studded audience in ultra-glamorous Cape Town amidst much champagne, a gentle sea breeze, a host of sensational models, designers, photographers, stylists, hair and beauty specialists and of course an entourage of fashionistas. The glam factor hit the treble digits!
Womenswear, menswear and gender-fluid collections were showcased, ranging from proper couture (Simply Vermeulen, Jacques La Grange, Gavin Rajah, Kluk CGDT etc) to ready-to-wear (Habits, Stefania Morland, Shana, Rosey & Vittorio, etc) and streetwear (Influhks, Cultish, Redbat etc). Standout collections include exceptional offerings by talented newcomers Ruald Rheeder, Lara Klawikowski, Xolani Mawande and Nao Serati.
Needless to say, the collections shouted with joy, beamed with the brightest of colours, boasted extraordinary surface design, patterning and exquisitely crafted details and simply left us gagging to update our wardrobes! Layering is king, more is more, colour is the new black! We’ve picked out our favourite bits and invite you to come along on this journey of African delights.
KLUK CGDT
@klukcgdt, https://klukcgdt.com/boutique/
St Martins graduate Malcolm Kluk (who did his apprenticeship under none other than maestro John Galliano) and his partner have built a fashion empire in Cape Town that has, over the years, dressed celebrities like Kate Moss, Beyonce and Charlize Theron; their clothes regularly featuring in global fashion magazines, from Elle to Wallpaper and Harper’s Bazaar. Their design ethos of making fashion into an unforgettable experience by presenting the best quality fabric and design (they produce 3 ready-to-wear collections per year), fit and service – all in unbeatable, sexy and glamorous settings – has proven a recipe for longevity and success. A much-beloved institution in Cape Town, Kluk CGDT delivered yet another sensational offering at SAMW 2023.
LARA KLAWIKOWSKI
@lara_klawikowski
Says sustainable fashion designer Lara Klawikowski of her acclaimed collection that was inspired by her Polish heritage and Polish folk-art, “The patterns were cut to avoid any further off-cuts ending up in landfills. It’s a tactile collection with an unusual colour palette, inspired by the colours of local fynbos. The proportions are unpredictable but flattering.” We can’t agree more.
STEFANIA MORLAND
@stefaniamorland
The undisputed queen of colour and known for her bold combinations in the most exquisite silk, chiffon, organza and tulle, covered in intricate hand details and embellishments, Stefania Morland has been dressing the who’s who of South Africa and beyond for decades. Her glamourous, elegant, exotic creations need no introduction, and this SAMW collection from Stefania’s stables is one to drool over.
SHANA MORLAND
@shanamorland
Following in her famous designer mother’s footsteps, Shana Morland has carved out a niche in the bespoke evening, bridal and occasion wear market in South Africa. Colourful and vibrant, youthful and edgy, Shana’s designs are infinitely covetable.
RUFFTUNG
@rufftung
Says Bridget Pickering, Rufftung’s creative director, “Our AW23 collection celebrates wearable shimmer and shine, easy silhouettes and bold prints. In our Ruff Tung world, winter doesn’t equate to sombre colour palettes.” With ready-to-wear sequin garments – slouchy kimono coats, unstructured blazers, palazzos and other ultra-comfy and versatile pieces, the brand stays true to its commitment to both style, comfort and wearability.
GAVIN RAJAH
@gavinrajah
Gavin Rajah is another household brand synonymous with luxury in the world of slow fashion in South Africa, known for their exquisite one-off, hand-crafted pieces made from the finest fabrics. With a loyal clientele Gavin Rajah manufactures his pieces in Cape Town and regularly shows at the couture shows in Paris.
JACQUES LA GRANGE
@jacques_lagrange_couture
The ‘King of Couture’ in South Africa, Jacques La Grange, is celebrating just over three hugely successful decades in fashion. Having dressed innumerable celebrities over the years, Jacques La Grange’s 2023 range for SAMW – a confident symphony in black – is testimony to the incredible talent of this designer.
NAO SERATI
@naoserati
Nao Serati’s collection is a tribute to the black punk culture, using leather and fabric to resemble skin and the muscular structure of the male body. Dresses are feminine and fragile, sexy and boundary-pushing. We adore the denim co-ord with its punk-like beads!
HABITS
@Habitsfashion_sa
A much-loved and award-winning brand that was established over 3 decades ago, has consistently delivered ultra-wearable, super-elegant clothes. They opened their show with much aplomb: the Cape Town Marching Band very appropriately heralded in this military-inspired range for SAMW 2023.
RUALD RHEEDER
@rualdrheeder
Ruald Rheeder’s collection ‘Dark Angel’ with its all-black pieces and clean silhouettes, textures of leather, faux fur, velvet, suede, chiffon and tulle made a big impression on the runway. We adore the finale, leopard print – head to toe!
ROSEY & VITTORI
@roseyandvittori
Contemporary, edgy, verging on the grungy side of things, Rosey & Vittori’s offering for SAMW 2023 came in the shape of bold, brave colour and texture combinations, quirky silhouettes and inspired accessories. We adore the Renaissance digital print on the coat and trouser co-ord.
XOLANI MAWANDE
@xolani.mawande
If polka dots are your thing, this is the collection for you! Fun, playful, cleverly co-ordinated and very covetable, colourful and bolder than bold!
IMPRINT
@imprint_za
“The collection tells the story of different African characters in different parts of the world, at different times, from different tribes. All inspired by the idea of coming home”, says designer Mzukisi Mbane. Known for their extraordinary prints every season, Imprint gave us, yet again, a collection to jump for joy about. Cheery, inspired and festive, the silhouettes range from 60s-inspired sheath dresses and knee boots to Japanese-style obi belts and beautifully tailored tweed coats. We especially adore the yellow and purple knitted ensemble!