PARIS MENSWEAR FASHION WEEK SS 2024: LOUIS VUITTON, DRIES VAN NOTEN, GIVENCHY, RICK OWENS, YOHJI YAMAMOTO and ACNE STUDIOS

by Cecile Paul · Published June 30, 2023 · Updated January 24, 2024

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Paris Presented a Masterclass in Schoolboy Chic – this against the Backdrop of the Season’s ‘Hourglass’ Silhouette, with Suit Jackets Neatly Tucked into Shorts.

This season’s hottest trend: shorts. At Dries Van Noten
Image Credit Paris Fashion Week and Vogue

TRENDS

With Milan Menswear Fashion Week still fresh in our fashion memories, it was fascinating to see that Paris Menswear continued sporting many of the trends we spotted at their Italian counterpart’s.

‘Schoolboy’ tailoring was a definite look that designers simply couldn’t resist for SS 2024: with tailored jackets tucked into shorts/skorts the cinched-in-the-waist silhouette simply kept appearing time and time again – from Dries Van Noten to Rick Owens, where it was beautifully exaggerated in its hourglass-waistedness. Layering also kept re-appearing – most notably so at Yohji Yamamoto and Acne, as did jumpsuits and safari/cargo details on trousers, shorts and jackets. The trend for transparency continued too, to the point where sheer fabrics were hands down the stars of the show at various designers’ offerings.

And boy oh boy, was it all a feast for the eye – diverse, fluid, quirky and solid … but don’t take our word for it, come along as we explore the very best of Paris Menswear SS 2024.

LOUIS VUITTON

It was a bedazzling show of camouflage – or shall we say ‘dazzoflage’, at Vuitton at the Pont Neuf: knits, faux fur scarves, jackets, 3-D origami coats, rucksacks, carry-alls, briefcases, handbags, wellie boot, sunspecs, coffee mugs, trousers, berets, lounge co-ords – all in some rendition of camouflage … even the old faithful, double denim, got the dazzle factor!

Camouflage patterns soon became checkerboard shapes, and the predominantly khaki green shades turned into maroon, brown and blue in a rollercoaster of a visual spectacle. A few ensembles in sunset boulevard-esque shades and oversized logo-ed designs appeared, to be followed by leather and faux fur pieces that were as striking as they were covetable.

Vuitton is, above all, world famous for their luxurious logo-ed accessories – and it was indeed hat, belt and boot heaven … but perhaps the most striking aspect of this already extraordinary show were the bags: from camouflage briefcases and rucksacks to over-the-shoulder sling bags, tote bags, gym bags, carry-alls, cabin luggage … each ensemble showcased a different must-have piece of arm candy. Eat your hearts out, this is a show to remember – and most definitely not just for the bags!

Watch Louis Vuitton’s show here:

A Chanel-type jacket in camouflage. At Louis Vuitton

Oversized ‘Mine Craft” camouflage in faux fur. At Louis Vuitton

At Even wellies got the camo touch. At Louis Vuitton

Camouflage everything! At Louis Vuitton

Checkerboard replaced camouflage in this ensemble. At Louis Vuitton

The new-style 3-piece. At Louis Vuitton

Sunset Boulevardvibes. At Louis Vuitton

Loungewear Louis Vuitton-style. At Louis Vuitton

Chartreuse faux fur has never looked more covetable. At Louis Vuitton

DRIES VAN NOTEN

In a show that stuck to a rather well-mannered, relatively neutral palette of brown, burnt orange, mushroom, grey and charcoal – with the inspired injection of some duck-egg blue and aubergine – Dries Van Noten pulled out all the design stops. Van Noten, like his counterparts in Milan, was clearly on a mission to redefine and rediscover the ‘new’ 2024 notion of masculinity. The result? A study in pure elegance, sophistication and fluidity.

We ogled a herringbone suit worn with open-toe sandals and a semi unbuttoned shirt, a jacket nonchalantly tucked into a pair of pleated shorts, a sequined shirt worn underneath a collarless pyjama-style housecoat, wrap skirts and front-button skirts in slubby silk, linen, velvet, leather … The trend for safari-style detail was also ever-present – many of the shirts, trousers and shorts came complete with cargo pocket details. As ever, it was a visionary feast, and a tactile one at that. Yet again the king of colour, pattern and texture effortlessly offered a magical tapestry where mixing sequins with wool, knits with gaberdine, fur with leather is something he does with expert ease.

Watch Dries Van Noten’s show here:

A nude tailored jacket tucked into flaming orange shorts. At Dries Van Noten

Fluid fashion that included knits and easy lounge coats. At Dries Van Noten

Colour blocking as only Dries Van Noten can create! At Dries Van Noten

Forever sequins! At Dries Van Noten

A shiny herringbone tweed suit with sandals – easy! At Dries Van Noten

Cargo details were a trend seen in many places, here at Dries Van Noten

Safari/cargo shorts and a slubby knit – effortless chic. At Dries Van Noten

A front-button skirt worn over cargo pants. At Dries Van Noten

RICK OWENS

Theatrics has always been the operative at any Rick Owens show: plumes of smoke & ash raining down, fireworks, an otherworldly stage (this time in the deco forecourt of the impressive Palais de Tokyo under monumental scaffold towers), with rain dramatically belting down … and Rick Owens’ beloved colour black – graphic, somewhat morbid but structured – futuristic ensembles marched across the larger-than-life stage and the rain-drenched audience was in awe.

In keeping with the favoured silhouette of the season, Owens – in true form – went all out. Jackets with extreme shoulders became cinched in the waist before the silhouette tapered outwards again towards the hips. Trousers, shorts and skirts favoured exaggerated high waistlines, and another trend of the season – jackets tucked into trousers or shorts – also appeared in many ensembles. Models, monk-like, with shaven heads, wrapped in floor-sweeping cloaks and hoods while perched on Owens’ signature platform boots, strutted their stuff and disappeared into the fog, like medieval characters straight from a science fiction movie. It was pure, unadulterated Rick Owens.

Watch Rick Owens’ show here:

A sleeveless leather gilet worn over shorts. At Rick Owens

The famous hourglass figure. At Rick Owens

Sinewy and sensual wraps and a pair of this season’s high waited trousers. At Rick Owens

Trousers ride up high. At Rick Owens

A transparent top is in keeping with the hourglass silhouette of the collection. At Rick Owens

An ‘in-out-in’ silhouette. At Rick Owens

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Always an experience, from the music to each and every carefully crafted ensemble – every hat, every pair of shoes, every face has the hand of Yohji in it … and this time was no different! A legend and visionary without rival, Yohji Yamamoto presented his characteristically lengthy show that, as ever, had the fingerprints of the man in every last detail, from the choice of music to the (slow) pace of the show, the rawness & edginess of each ensemble, to Yamamoto’s face (literally) printed on many of the garments.

Loose layering has always been Yamamoto’s preferred silhouettes, as are the prints, the straps, the raw edges, the braces and the use of monochromatic black and grey. Over the past few collections we’ve seen red interjected as a juxtaposition to black, and Yamamoto utilized this yet again for 2024, claiming this time that red represents blood, for all the horrors that are happening around us at the minute. We marveled at the prints, some medieval-looking, others modern – always fresh and striking. Safety pins, raw edges, patchwork, visible stitching – it was all there amongst the exquisite tailoring. A standout look was the cloaked, layered and pleated ensemble – like many others, very theatrical indeed. But then, who doesn’t want to be part of Yohji’s drama?

Watch Yohji Yamamoto’s show here:

Cavalier layering. At Yohji Yamamoto

Straps, patchwork and digital prints. At Yohji Yamamoto

Pleats please! At Yohji Yamamoto

Easy layering in wool. At Yohji Yamamoto

From medieval faces to modern toilets – all in one outfit! At Yohji Yamamoto

A Dickensian retro-look. At Yohji Yamamoto

Blue frilly details. At Yohji Yamamoto

Layers of printed cotton. At Yohji Yamamoto

The injection of red for 2024. At Yohji Yamamoto

Red is a major player in the collection. At Yohji Yamamoto

GIVENCHY

Creative director Matthew Williams opened his show with the traditional: generously-cut double breasted jackets over wide slacks, which soon made way for sportier bomber jackets worn over shorts, vests, moon bags, perforated knits, track tops, zip-up hoodies and tunics with 60s-inspired holes. Shorts, ankle boots and logo-ed pullovers made up the ‘preppy schoolboy chic’ look that we’ve seen across many of the menswear collections for SS2024 – both in Paris and Milan. Let’s hope for a hot summer to sport all those shorts (but would it sprout a preppy Harry Potter/ Sponge Bob revival?)

Watch Givenchy’s show here:

A preppy pullover underneath a classic coat suit. At Givenchy

Sporty shorts and a bomber. At Givenchy

A moon bag worn to accentuate the waist. At Givenchy

Large perforations! At Givenchy

An airy knit in rose. At Givenchy

ACNE STUDIOS

Creative director Jonny Johansson wanted to, in his own words, “explore the psychology of how you change your look when you travel, how you are inspired to dress differently in order to shape a different alter ego.” The old staple, denim, was the undisputed star of the show (and who doesn’t travel with some denim in their luggage?) – topstitched, patchworked, collaged, contoured and dyed, pale and dark, and paired with vintage-style tops and jackets. Quirky, edgy, grungy and decidedly recycled, this is a collection that would jazz up any travel wardrobe no end: take the soft pink knit over a plaid hoodie, a leather wrap skirt and printed leggings and pair of red clogs … one can easily picture yourself getting off the plane in this ensemble, ready to start shedding those layers as you hit the beach-side promenade.