MILAN FASHION WEEK Spring/Summer 2024: Prada, Fendi, Gucci, Versace, Moschino, Roberto Cavalli and Viviers

by Cecile Paul · Published September 27, 2023 · Updated January 24, 2024

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**Minimalist and Mannish Silhouettes were Softened with Romantic Floral Motifs; Miniscule Micro-Shorts are still all the Rage; and Gender-Fluid Pieces are Definitely the New Norm.**

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Image Credit Milan Fashion Week and Vogue

Leading brands like Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana pretty much determine the temperature on the global fashion thermometer each season. And they inevitably dictate which fashion trends will garnish our high streets and make their way into our closets. Little wonder the fashion world holds its breath in anticipation of what these heavyweights have up their fluted sleeves for us twice a year.

This season all fashionable eyes were firmly fixed on newly-appointed creative director Sabato de Sarno at Gucci, who seemed to have stepped away from the almost kitsch, verging-on-grunge, maximalist collections we’ve seen from the stables of his predecessor Alessandro Michele, to give us something altogether more ‘old school’ Gucci.

Paired down, well-behaved and minimalist looks were spotted at both Gucci and Prada, and even Versace seems to have opted for some level of restraint this season (the looks at Versace were more ‘Chanel’ than Donatella!) Roberto Cavalli, at the other end of the spectrum, went all out and his signature exotic prints and escapist ensembles made for a brilliant contrast to the somewhat more spartan looks elsewhere.

As ever, Milan Fashion Week proved to be as sophisticated and elegant as ever, solid in its offerings, with the stalwarts of Italian fashion out in full force, sharing the limelight with a few very exciting newcomers.

Sit back and enjoy our pick of the best of the collections. A feast for the eyes, straight from the runways of arguably the most elegant of fashion weeks!

Image Credit Vogue
Italian Street Style (and quintessential Italian transport!) at Milan Fashion Week

FENDI

Watch Fendi’s show here:

In a Fendi collection that was an unadulterated celebration of femininity, understated elegance and subtle masculine tailoring was the name of the game. Creative director Kim Jones created a palette of vibrant rich reds, oranges and lemon reminiscent of a sizzling hot summer in Sicily. Sicilian in shade it may be, but the designer had ancient Rome, the city where Fendi was founded close to 100 years ago, in mind when creating this modern collection. Indeed, so many aspects of the ensembles are reminiscent of ancient Roman ruined statues: the flapping panels on the dresses, their column shapes as well as the clever asymmetry.

Colour-blocking in the smoothest of leather, suede and jersey on coats, patchwork jackets, bodycon dresses, wrap skirts and coats is simply breath-taking in their artistry and abstract lines; these pieces are sleek, simplistic, sculptural, statuesque and fluid. The warm autumn shades are ingeniously juxtaposed with the subtlest contrast of blue-grey (was the Mediterranean the inspiration?)

Tubular skin-tight boob-tube dresses and micro minis oozed luxe and ooh-la-la chic, and bags and gloves provided further shockingly bright accent pops. This is a beautiful and refreshingly contemporary collection of finely balanced form, line, shade, pattern and proportion. Simply a feast for the eye.

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GUCCI

Watch Gucci’s show here:

Newly appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno pivoted the House of Gucci away from previous seasons of maximalist eclecticism that verged on grunge, to an era reminiscent of the brand’s nineties heyday, when collections were made of shiny patent leather and when sleek simplicity and ultra-chic Italian luxe were the essence of Gucci.

Although De Sarno’s predecessor Alessandro Michele’s ‘more is more’ ethos intrigued us for a few seasons, we’re absolutely delighted to see Gucci navigating back to its roots of pure, paired-down, clean-line, no fuss Italian fashion, very much echoing the golden era of Tom Ford’ tenure at Gucci from 1994 – 2004.

Micro shorts, miniscule bra-lets, the mini-est of skirts and rhinestone-embellished easy shift dresses are beautifully combined with other ‘bare essentials’ – close cut leather blazers, vests, sheer tops and low V-neck blouses. The result is sexy, joyful and uncomplicated. Oxblood shades are complemented with camel and lime green, looking super fresh and contemporary.

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PRADA

Watch Prada’s show here:

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ minimalist silhouette for Prada was an extension of what we’ve seen in previous season: impeccably sharp tailoring, micro mini-shorts, nipped-in the waist belted jackets with broad shoulders, translucent layered metallic fabrics and exaggerated long sleeves on jackets. But that was then …

What’s brand spanking new is the addition of copious quantities of hand-craft and fringing. Prada and Simon have opted to try ‘copy proof’ (Prada is one of the most copied brands by the high street) their latest offering by adding even more delicately hand-crafted details than before, details like the metallic fringe on skirts, printed fringe on floral skirts, fringe that boasted metallic eyelets as its decoration and crystals that bound the velvet and leather pieces together.

Demure colour combinations like maroon and black, and shades of charcoal and black made up much of the range, oftentimes with the injection of some metallics. Pastels in sheer organza were a fabulous contrast to the stark shades.

Shawls were draped over shoulders, jackets were belted in the waist, sheath dresses in the sheerest of layered organza looked like they were floating, and ruched silk evening bags rubbed shoulders with hard-core tailoring.

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VERSACE

Watch Versace’s show here.

Versace is most certainly extremely well-versed in sexy, girly glamour, and it just so happened that this season coincided with the hype of the new Barbie film – a match made in heaven! Banished was the brand’s signature in-your-face bolder-than-bold, uber-sexy, super body-conscious pieces. According to Donatella Versace, the SS 2024 Versace muse is ‘a powerful woman with a touch of sweetness’.

With Barbie as inspiration – the alternative, sweeter version of the typical Versace girl – candy floss pastels and sugary gingham, cute twinsets and co-ords, pretty buttons, ribbons, bows, flat ballerina pumps and pastel-hued sunspecs were unpacked in a show that reeked of ‘all things nice’. Barbie also got to wear some black, to show that she’s not just a pretty face, she means business! Ken inevitable had to look good too, and he sure did in his sky blue silk shirt and lime green suit. Boxy men’s jackets in the style of singer Prince also made their debut, as did the brand’s medusa emblems, printed on boxer shorts and short sets.

To conclude the show, befittingly nineties supermodel Claudia Schiffer – perhaps the ultimate Barbie – showcased one of the most striking pieces of the collection, a lime and silver chequered gown.

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MOSCHINO

Watch Moschino’s show here.

This collection was intended as a celebration to mark the 4 decades of Franco Moschino’s theatrical fashion – and focussed on what was arguably the heyday of the brand – the 1980s and 1990s.

The signature Moschino details that we’ve got to know and love over the past 40 years were all there: the hourglass silhouettes, the impeccable tailoring, the tongue-in-cheek details, the exclamation marks, the heart-shaped everything, the statement jewellery, the graphic black and white combinations, cowboy hats, gilded objects, frills and ruching … And of course Moschino’s fearless use of slogans. This time “LOUD LUXURY’ felt very appropriate!

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ROBERTO CAVALLI

Watch Roberto Cavalli’s show here.

Creative director Fausto Puglisi has his finger firmly on the pulse of the Roberto Cavalli wearer. She adores the brand’s exotic, glamorous, confident and super sexy fingerprint, and Puglisi didn’t diverge from this remit: the tropical décor as backdrop to the show saw ensemble after ensemble appear complete with the full dose of Cavalli opulence and decadence. More is more is more!

Flamboyant, oversized feather prints embellished silk, while shimmery devoré animal print sheath dresses and sexy black jersey dresses slinked across the runway. Sleek narrow scarves, opulent kaftan with fluted sleeves, fringed handbags and feathery pointy-hem chiffon dresses were only some of the drop-dead pieces and details on show in this extensive SS 2024 collection, each in its own right a work of art.

The colour palette was another piece of theatre, and ranged from balmy sunset shades to representing all the subtle tones of the desert. Floaty and colourful silk-chiffon creations gave way to extremely sleek, cut-out black jersey dresses. There were also black leather trousers and other tailored pieces on show but it was most certainly the flamboyant caftans and maxi dresses that stood out as Roberto Cavalli at its very best.

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VIVIERS

As ever, Viviers’ offering is as visually compelling as it is epic and thought-provoking. It transports one to an alternative reality where mythical characters and legends – warriors and princesses, sorcerers and goddesses – are playing out scenes on an otherworldly stage.

The collection speaks of the universality of mankind and its body-coverings and adornments – from ancient to contemporary. According to the designer the collection is ‘a canvas for unravelling the threads that bind our collective origin stories’. An inspiration for the collection, aptly named ‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture’ is archaeology, and it delves deep into our origins, asking the question, how have we humans evolved? (Evidently we have always liked our desirable goodies!)

But it’s not all theatre. Who wouldn’t want to wear each one of these beautifully sculpted regal ensembles with their organic, oversized skull and skeleton-like jewels? Tactile and intricate, these pieces with their meticulously hand-crafted details have been made using leather, mohair and other natural fabrics.