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From Colourful Collages to Monochromatic Minimalism, from Artful Patterning to Simplistic Silhouettes, Brands Confidently Put their Own Spin on the Season’s New Offerings.

And what a Dizzying Display of African Magic it was!

Image Credit The Bam Collective on Instagram – at The Bam Collective

Image Credit South African Fashion Week and SAFW on Instagram

The Mall of Africa once again hosted the uber-glamorous South African Fashion Week, an event that bi-annually boasts the very best of South African design, with established stalwarts like Black Coffee, Helon Melon, The Bam Collective, Munkus, Rubicon, Ephymol and Michael Ludwig Studios taking centre stage. Exciting up-and-coming young design talent was also given a platform to showcase their collections.

In step with the current trend for sustainability, a low carbon footprint, recycling, upcycling, gender-fluid and body-sensitive design, brands put their own spin on innovative creations.

To say that most of the offerings were bolder than bold is an understatement: all things vibrant, cheery and bright featured on the runway. Collection after collection boasted a plethora of colour and pattern as well as a host of contemporary African-inspired shapes and silhouettes. It’s safe to say that more was definitely more! And that ‘joyous’ was an apt description of the event.

So, sit back, feel the heat of the African sun in every ensemble and enjoy our hand-picked selection of the best of the collections for Autumn / Winter 2024.

BEHIND THE SCENES

Fashionistas in the bold fashion palette of the ‘Rainbow Nation’ strutted their stuff at the shows. Vibrant shades, bold colour blocking, fearless surface patterning and inspired accessories captured the essence of the ever-glamorous South African fashion lexicon. Meanwhile beauty wizards behind the scenes were hard at work to exploit new trends in hair and make-up to great effect.

FRONT ROW GLAM!

SETTING THE SCENE: BACKSTAGE HAIR & BEAUTY MAGIC

THE DESIGNERS

MICHAEL LUDWIG STUDIO

African-inspired Delft-like patterns in true blue and orange were juxtaposed with Vivienne Westwood ‘Anglomania’-esque stripes and shapes. Smart layering, asymmetry, subtle patterning and sophisticated stripes make this collection sing.

LEON VON SOLMS

Hand-painted and hand-printed linen and cotton in combination with artfully chosen fabrics make for a collection that’s simply out of this world. Oriental silhouettes and accessories – kimono sleeves and obi belts – effortlessly complement African shapes and patterns in an exceptionally visually pleasing offering.

FIKILE SOKHULE

Easy-to-wear, feminine silhouettes in sunshine-yellow wavy stripes, plain white, black and red combined to create a very cheery collection. Fikile Sokhule’s signature avant-garde design elements like ruching and ribbons, 3-D embellishments and quirky asymmetry, voluminous sleeve details and other artful touches ran through this delightful collection.

OYAMA GONINTEBE

One of the standout collections of SAFW AW 2024 has to be this extraordinary symphony of wearable art: asymmetric peplums on shirts, clever piping on jackets, oversized coats – too many exquisite details to mention! Smart design and delightful colour combinations, with a nod to the designer’s Xhosa culture, made us gasp for breath. We’re looking forward to more innovative fashion stories from the stables of this very talented newcomer.

THE BAM COLLECTIVE

‘Dramatic, unforgettable and bold’ is one way of describing designer Jacques Bam’s unmistakable AW 2024 creations for The Bam Collective. Ballgowns, mini dresses and midi suits sported voluminous fabric peplums with colours ranging from monochromatic black and cream to primary shades of cobalt, coral and cerise.

MUNKUS

Known for telling the stories of everyday women, this Munkus’ offering for AW 2024 with its dreamy colourways, extraordinary pint details, floaty asymmetry and eye-pleasing silhouettes makes an unforgettable statement. This is without a shadow of a doubt one of the most memorable collections of the shows.

THULA-TU

This is where African-inspired shapes and shades meet contemporary classics. Bold patterning binds together a collection that traverses with ease through a palette of olive green, egg-yolk yellow, cobalt blue and black.

VNTU

Designer Amanda Trom says her Pan-African, gender-neutral collection is inspired by both her South African and Zambian roots. Quirky and eclectic, this collection is where sexy, preppy school-girl chic meets 1990s grunge – just fabulous!

ELWEN DESIGN

Functionality and practicality meet a fluid aesthetic in this collection of jumpsuits and co-ords for ‘freedom of movement’ that are perfectly suited for sky-diving … straight into a 5-star restaurant for dinner! Strappy parachute-silk dresses beautifully complement the more utilitarian pocketed waistcoats and onesies.

BLACK COFFEE

Iconic local designer Jacques van der Watt’s latest Black Coffee collection is (mostly) gender-neutral and draws its inspiration from 18th century frescos and mosaics, Hokusai block prints and Sashiko mending. Tactile, layered, fluid and filled with unexpected colour pops, topstitching details and even a nod to local South African Ndebele prints, this is, yet again, an ingenious collection from the stables of Black Coffee.

MANTSHO

Palesa Mokubung of Mantsho’s Regalia Collection references “the distinctive clothing, usually royal-like, worn at formal occasions to indicate status or rank.” A seasoned designer and well-established brand on the highly competitive South African scene, Mantsho once again demonstrated a masterclass in the art of pattern, shape, colour and design.

VIVIERS

“Viviers’ AW24 Collection, Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture, is a canvas for unravelling the threads that bind our collective origin stories, inviting us to examine the interconnections between art, science, spirituality, and cultural heritage,” says designer Lezanne Viviers. Having just showed at Milan Fashion Week, it was wonderful to see these extraordinary creations gracing the runways in Johannesburg.

RUBICON

Rubicon’s effortless and timeless style, form-flattering sophistication and tailored craftsmanship were yet again the hallmarks of a memorable collection, as designer Hangwani Nengovhela celebrates this iconic brand’s 21st birthday this season.

HELON MELON

Helen Gibbs of well-established Cape Town brand, Helon Melon’s chemical-free fabric and vibrant water-based colours formed the backbone of a collection that celebrated contemporary African-inspired resort-wear. Delightful prints and cheery colours bound together by (mostly) red-and-white grosgrain stripe details transported us to golden beaches, tranquil seas and lazy days.

REFUSE CLOTHING

These street-ready pieces ooze with extraordinary details – customised animal prints rub shoulders with intarsia knits and deliciously eclectic colour and pattern combinations wow with their modernity. We’re in awe!

SILVER MAGPIE

This endearing range has a quirky vintage feel to it with its patchwork skirts, crocheted jumpers, collage knits and prairie dresses. Retro shapes and autumn colours combine effortlessly in a collection that is very special indeed.

SOBER

Bold, vibrant, joyous and inspired by SePedi culture, is this AW2024 collection by Tshepo Mafokwane. These dresses in their cheery bright shades, with quirky detail on the sleeves, shoulders, waists and hems are super flattering and are ‘must-have’ pieces for any wardrobe.

MUSAWENKOSI

It’s all fine and dandy! Gorgeous jewel shades of emerald, purple and oxblood combined with camel, cream and white were used to create a collection that is contemporary, sophisticated and very elegant.

SUN GODDESS

Frocks fit for an African princess! Luxury fashion and lifestyle brand Sun Goddess graced the runway with its collection of quintessential South African clothing and accessories. The pieces with their detailed handwork, signature fabrics and fabulous colour palette speak of heritage stories and a regal African aesthetic.