PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO Fall/ Winter 2024
Suave and Dandy, Silhouettes at PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO paid Homage to Old School Charm and Romanticism, with Tweed, Velvet and Pinstripes Setting the Tone for Fall/ Winter 2024.
Accessories adorn this rock & roll shirt and waistcoat. At Magliano
Image Credit Pitti Immagine Uomo
Florence, birthplace of the house of Gucci, was abuzz for a fashion-filled week in January, with the super stylish ancient Tuscan capital hosting the highly anticipated Pitti Immaginare Uomo. It was a true Italian feast of clobber, footwear, accessories and all things utterly covetable.
The runway shows were interspersed with trade shows, with exhibitors displaying their collections across the city, and brands like Bikkembergs, Margaret Howell, Guess Jeans, Adidas, G-Star Raw and Deus Ex Machina all participated in this glamorous show of the most desirable of new fashion. Local legendary retailers like the extraordinary LuisaViaRoma with its curated selection of over 600 luxe brands (a personal Florentine go-to favourite!), Miu Miu and Pinko lit up the main shopping drag, Via Roma. Other homegrown stalwarts like Salvatore Ferragamo and Tod’s were also part of the week-long extravaganza that saw fashionistas and buyers flock to Florence to be part of the fashion frenzy.
As for trends, the ‘country gentleman’ look was perhaps the most prevalent and came in many guises: from generous-sized three-piece tweed and velvet suits to sportwear-inspired tartan and tweed lounge co-ords, houndstooth coats with oversized lapels, Barbour-style herringbone jackets and intarsia-knitted jumpers, chunky argyle scarves, gloves, bags, hats, shoes – from studded brogues to sturdy walking boots – all constituted the vocabulary of the genteel dandy at work and play.
A trend that’s been with us for many seasons now, the quirky shorts suit – often accompanied by a belted jacket and long socks, featured in many collections. Layering was huge – both as a trend and as a physical feature: shirts were hanging out from under sweaters and waistcoats were styled over shirts and underneath jackets and coats, long chunky jumpers were belted to peek out from underneath jackets. A colour palette ranging from warm brown to bison, blue to green looked autumnal and sumptuous.
Cosy up, sit back and enjoy a snapshot of what Pitti Immagine Uomo has in store for your Autumn/ Winter 2024 wardrobe!
SETTING THE SCENE…
Fashionistas stream to the main venues in Florence
Choices!
A fringed bubble jacket is layered over a suit
Fluffy mohair cardigans
Gorgeous pops of colour
Plaid please!
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THE DESIGNERS
TODD SNYDER
US designer Todd Snyder is perhaps most famous for his fabulous cashmere collections every season. This Fall/ Winter 2024 collection combines sumptuous quilting, velvet, tweed, tartan, satin and PVC with cashmere. A sportwear thread runs through the collection, giving the pieces a relaxed, luxurious look and feel. The ever-contrasting mix of fabrics – from silky satin to coarse tweed, makes for a visual and tactile feast.
A belted padded bubble coat in mustard. At Todd Snyder
Rusty denim trousers tucked into sturdy boots. At Todd Snyder
Sporty silhouettes, with shorts and long socks. At Todd Snyder
Fluid satin and a pair of belted trousers. At Todd Snyder
Classic tweed in a wide-lapel coat. At Todd Snyder
Padded tartan and aviators. At Todd Snyder
Luxe and sporty. At Todd Snyder
A chevron-emblem features in this sweater design. At Todd Snyder
Shorts, socks and a maxi coat – very ‘now’. At Todd Snyder
Sumptuous double velvet in ice blue. At Todd Snyder
It’s a cosy combo! At Todd Snyder
The look of the past few seasons: a shorts suit. At Todd Snyder
Tweed and pinstripes. At Todd Snyder
Bold plaid worn over leggings. At Todd Snyder
The textures complement each other perfectly. At Todd Snyder
A bulky faux fur teddy bear coat – cosy! At Todd Snyder
Sleek and sporty. At Todd Snyder
Quaint flowers embroidered into this faux fur ensemble. At Todd Snyder
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SS DALEY
Young British designer Stoke-Daley’s collection is a tribute to his fascination with the traditional clobber of the English aristocracy. Intarsia knits (like one featuring riders on horses) are juxtaposed with stripes, piping and quilting to give garments a luxe and decadent feel. Knitted ponchos, Anglomania stripy suits, shorts and belted coats make for a nostalgic take on the country gent look.
Stripes, velvet, knits and more. At SS Daley
A striking intarsia racecourse scene on this poncho. At SS Daley
Quilting and piping and a cute bonnet to top off this shorts set. At SS Daley
Argyle knits in a jumper and oversized scarf. At SS Daley
Loungewear at its best – a sumptuous gown with extra plush sleeves. At SS Daley
Dandy Stripes a la Anglomania. At SS Daley
A belted copper trench suit. At SS Daley
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MAGLIANO
Luca Magliano’s collection is that perfect cocktail of rustic, traditional and comfy elements mixed with edgy 80s’ punk. His show took place at the Nelson Mandela Forum in the city, the perfect backdrop to showcase this rather dramatic collection of casual tailoring with a twist.
Jackets were knotted at the waist, casually worn over overly-long trousers, graphic T-shirts, bulky bomber jackets, toggled padded jackets and blazers were worn with fluid trousers. Jumpers had a reconstructed, vintage feel to them and fedoras resembled party hats! Grungy layering and pops of colour looked very ‘now’- and perhaps the most unforgettable feature of the collection were those punk-studded loafers!
Watch Magliano’s show here:
Easy blazers and bomber over fluid trousers. At Magliano
A chunky jumper gets belted for that layered look. At Magliano
A graphic punk touch in the T-shirt and hair. At Magliano
Knitted scarves were a definite trend. At Magliano
A fedora became a paper-boat hat! At Magliano
Grungy shades and slouchy garments make for a worn-in look. At Magliano
A shapely retro denim jumpsuit. At Magliano
Layering over a quilted gingham shirt. At Magliano
Layering adds a casual feel to this look. At Magliano
Just a touch of punk. At Magliano
Those studded loafers are something else! At Magliano
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ACHILLES ION GABRIEL
Finnish designer Achilles Ion Gabriel’s collection oozes glamorous luxe, with a touch of the avant-garde. In a restrained palette of predominantly grey, with the odd interjection of sky blue, it’s the silhouettes that do most of the talking. A permanently crumpled suit lead the way for silhouettes like the coat with its oversized shoulders, cowhide trousers, denim coat two-piece with its faux fur piping and plaid jackets. The rest is a symphony of leather, pleather and lace, studded belts and bags.
At Achilles Ion Gabriel
Cowhide with a touch of punk. At Achilles Ion Gabriel
A traditional suit served up with a hoodie. At Achilles Ion Gabriel
Glamorous rock chic! At Achilles Ion Gabriel
Sequins embellish a jacket with oversized shoulders. At Achilles Ion Gabriel
Leather reigns supreme. At Achilles Ion Gabriel
Sky-blue pinstripes. At Achilles Ion Gabriel
Avant-garde and statuesque. At Achilles Ion Gabriel
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VELVET MI AMOR
A stunning installation at the Fortezza da Basso in Florence by Stefano and Corinna Chiassai features craftsmanship that’s on another level of artfulness. Smooth, inviting to the touch corduroy and velvet form the basis of many of these extraordinary pieces with their unexpected details. These textures are not restricted to clothing only, they also form the basis of hats, gloves and even shoes.
Unexpected little details. At Velvet Mi Amor
Textures and shades harmonise beautifully. At Velvet Mi Amor
Chocolate and mint velvet shoes. At Velvet Mi Amor
A ‘woven’ puffer jacket. At Velvet Mi Amor
Cute accessories embellish this velvet suit. At Velvet Mi Amor
Elephant cord velvet in ice blue. At Velvet Mi Amor
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