COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
BAUM & PFERDGARTEN, MARIMEKKO, HENRIK VIBSKOV, STINE GOYA, WOOD WOOD, REMAIN, LOVECHILD 1979, STAMM, ROLF EKROTH, NICKLAS SKOVGAARD, ALPHA, ROTATE and MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
Welcome to Next-Level Scandi Chic! Copenhagen FW was the perfect Fusion of Chic Minimalism and Quirky Eclecticism, where the Classic Rubbed Shoulders with the Experimental…
and Functionality, Simplicity and Fun Featured in Equal Measure.
Not long ago, when describing the essence of ‘Scandi Style’, we waxed lyrical about ‘minimalism’ and ‘functionality’, those pillars of design that defined what we considered to be quintessentially ‘Scandi style’.
Well, things have moved on! This season’s collections still bore the hallmarks of the latter, but there was so, so much more on offer. For starters, the trends for AW 2024 went way beyond the clichéd stripes, patterns and cold weather anoraks… AW 2024/5 is predicted to be a riotously colourful affair, one which speaks of out-of-the-box styling as well as quiet luxury.
We saw bold colour combinations across the board, as featured in both printed cloth and patterned knits and plaids. Patterned knits were quirky and cosy, as seen in onesies, but also in tights, skirts, sweaters and dresses. A key trend was the slogan scarf and sweater, with oversized intarsia logos sending designers’ messages.
The ‘old faithful’ trend of double denim (who can ever go wrong with that?) was seen in many places, and micro shorts rubbed shoulders with pleated and split-front midi skirts on the runway.
Faux fur ruled supreme and featured in full garments but was also seen as accents on collars, sleeves and piping. The trusted bubble coat went avant-garde and took on voluminous proportions. As did classic tailored coats and jackets – they perpetuated the seasonal trend of boasting oversized shoulder-padded shoulders. On many runways we saw transparent, flimsy garments (another long-standing trend) juxtaposed with masculine overcoats.
We invite you to sit back and enjoy our pick of the best of the bunch at Copenhagen FW 2024. Let’s kick off with some fabulous streetstyle as seen on the sidewalks.
Super vibrant ensembles were seen at celebrity Danish designer artist and curator known for thinking outside the box, Henrik Vibskov. Typical of all Vibskov’s shows (this one was aptly entitled Daily Chewing Gum Therapy Sessions) is that they’re so much more than just fashion; this collection, just like his others, was larger than life, with extraordinarily colourful prints, tartans, plaids, intarsia and other patterns vying for attention. Balaclavas, faux tattoos and flannel rubbed shoulders with some very classic trench coats – all working a treat together.
Particularly effective was the layering of woven patterns over plaid, laid over more pattern. Likewise, the inky shades of semi-transparent organza worked a treat with the colourful bubble coats. All in all, one of the most inspired and theatrical offerings at the shows.
Watch Henrik Vibskov’s show here:
This collection was a narrative of epic proportions inspired by the colours of Copenhagen. It was pure artistry, from the abstract knits worn under a split-front pinstripe layered skirt to the inky architectural graphics of a floor-sweeping gown pink and an artful tunic embellished with a large black clog in the centre.
This collection wearable art! Florals, water colours and Indian ink sketches made for an offering that is infinitely aesthetic and joyous. A wonderful contrast to all the colourful prints was the statuesque draped gown with its silver metal neckline detail – simple, classic and very flattering.
Watch Stine Goya’s show here:
BAUM & PFERDGARTEN
This legendary Danish design house known for its memorable prints and bold colours, created yet another collection that’s so must-have-able! It’s youthful and delightfully playful, yet serious enough to take one to the office.
Faux fur accents emboldened the coats with their oversized cuffs, pinstripe denim looked very ‘now’, and quirky slogans were knitted into cutesy intarsia sweaters. The oxblood accents in the leather skirts, on collars and in handbags provided fabulous colour pops, especially against the true blue knits and shirts.
Watch Baum & Pferdgarten’s show here:
Complimentary colours gold and cobalt blue were the star shades at Wood Wood. And the stars themselves sparkled brightly against a universe of deepest cobalt blue!
The tailoring in this collection with its shimmery satins, layered skirts and flat caps is effortlessly contemporary and very joyous.
Sleek and classically tailored silhouettes, creative knits and beautifully embroidered beadwork pieces were spotted at Remain. This design house has an ethos for always prioritizing femininity, and this year’s offering does just that.
A standout piece in the collection is the neatly tailored, shapely coat-dress with its buttons down the front and pockets. Period-inspired, but so contemporary!
Plenty drama and a hint of the avant-garde featured in spades in this range with its luxurious fabrics and shapely silhouettes. It’s a subtle celebration of the female body – no in-your-face- bodycon ensembles here, rather a celebration of romantic femininity.
Tweed, rib-knits, heavy cotton and wool jersey formed the backbone of a very beautiful range of tailoring. Drapery and asymmetry of shawls on coats looked epic, and belts cinched in waists for shapely forms.
Watch Lovechild 1979’s show here:
Voluminous bubble coats form the basis of Elizabeth Stamm’s AW 2024 collection that oozes comfort and elegance at the same time. Goose-down duvet shapes came molded in very interesting shapes and shades in an offering that promises to be as cosy as it’s striking.
The juxtaposition between oversized outerwear and transparent underwear (or nudity) creates a very interesting contrast indeed. This creative dualism – as those who are familiar with Stamm’s designs will vouch for, has always been what Stamm is known for – and this season is no different.
Watch Stamm’s show here:
Finnish-Swedish designer Rolf Ekroth, prioritises deadstock and recycled materials, which gives his collection a grungy feel. Luxe grunge, that is!
Belted track tops and shorts worn over tailored trousers, knitted onesies, quilted skirts, Barbour-inspired outerwear, double shoulder bags and some very quirky headgear make for a perfect halfway house between streetwear and sportswear.
Watch Rolf Ekroth’s show here:
Want to be the heroine in your own story? Wear Nicklas Skovgaard!
This collection by Copenhagen-based Nicklas Skovgaard explores the relationship textiles can hold in expressing narratives through the marriage of unexpected material and classical form. In fact, each one of these ensembles tells its own story!
Faux fur coat-capelets, asymmetrical sequined skirts, oversized rib-knits and draped jersey all form part of a range that has more than just a touch of the avant-garde. The colour combinations are also inspired – take for example the khaki-green ribbed sweater worn over the olive green sequined skirt, topped off by turquoise stockings, pumps and bangle.
Watch Nicklas Skovgaard’s show here:
Alpha is a talent support platform for young designers from the Nordics. Alpha supports, champions and showcases fashion talent from Denmark, Finland, Iceland, Norway and Sweden. And boy oh boy, is there talent! From the avant-garde to the classic, these emerging designers have their fingers firmly on the pulse of what’s hip and happening.
This Copenhagen brand distributes to over 40 countries worldwide, and it’s easy to see the appeal of this dreamy brand.
Tactile and crafted, each piece is utterly covetable and unique, with silhouettes ranging from vintage-inspired thirties dresses to contemporary faux fur coats and denim peplum tops worn with leather trousers and lace gloves.
Watch Rotate’s show here:
This national treasure of a Finnish design company is renowned for its original prints, patterns and bold colour combinations. They’re perhaps most famous for their iconic patterns that adorn dresses, coats, bags and other lifestyle accessories.
This season saw subtle pastel flowers rub shoulders with graphic abstracts on the runway, stripes on sweaters were worn over floral printed jeans and desert shades in bold patterns were seen on mini and maxi dresses alike.
Watch Marimekko’s show here:
MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN
Impeccable craftsmanship and classic silhouettes were seen at Mark Kenly Domino Tan.
Each ensemble looked luxurious, sophisticated and super elegant, if somewhat theatrical… These designs are timeless and ageless, with fabric choices and styles reflecting the longevity of each creation. These are pieces that will simply never go out of fashion!