SEOUL FASHION WEEK 2024
It was Cuteness Incorporated in Seoul.
K-Pop was Queen, as Grunge, Glam, Punk and Goth battled for the Coveted Street Style Crown.
Seoul Fashion Week, an eagerly ogled bright star on the Asian fashion horizon, yet again shone with all the playful aesthetics and characteristic focus on youthful design we’ve come to expect from this emerging powerhouse of forward-thinking fashion.
The symbiotic energy between Korean fashion and their inimitable K-pop artists has become a global phenomenon. Typically a mix of grunge and glam styles, we spotted iconic personalised looks with a nod to the 1980s, 1990s and 2000s in the collections: low-slung cargo pants, halter-neck tops, baby tees, platform shoes, flashy accessories… with the emphasis squarely on edgy cuteness!
As a total antithesis to the liquorice-hued, goth-inspired pieces, cupcake-shades of pastels were seen in many collections. Streetwear and loungewear featured all over, as did easy layering.
Classics – albeit Seoul-style, also had fabulous moments on the runway – we saw clean lines, bold colours and quirky takes on perennial favourites like trench coats, varsity jackets and corduroy trousers. Glossy black leather was the undisputed star of the show – on the streets as well as on the runways.
Quirky knits were most certainly a thing too and were sported in the boldest of colours. As was sumptuous faux fur, the ultimate fun accessory in the South Korean fashionista’s arsenal.
Think Park Chan-wook’s The Handmaiden (2016) and Kim Jee-Woon’s A Bittersweet Life (2005) as you sit back, relax and relish the best of Seoul Fashion Week.
Let’s kick off with a taste of what was seen on the streets…
STREETSTYLE
THE DESIGNERS
장선우 SUNWOO
www.sunwooworld.com
Watch SUN WOO’s show here:
Central St Martin’s alumni Sun Woo Chang’s otherworldly tent-like creations in their signature primary colours were joyously avant-garde. Experimental, minimalist, unconventional and theatrical, these are works of art that invite the wearer to interact in the story-telling.
이준복 RE RHEE
www.rerhee.com
With laid-back elegance and trendy appeal, this designer from Central St Martins who has won numerous global accolades over the years, wowed yet again. The shiny belted leather trench coat and strappy leather maxi dresses were exceptionally covetable.
Watch RE RHEE’s show here:
박소영 JULYCOLUMN
www.julycolumn.com
This collection of handcrafted gems – from delicious knits to beautifully constructed tailoring – comes from the stables of a brand that is painstakingly aware of the environment. They use deadstock materials and go to every length to minimise waste -– the result is nothing short of impressive: when you invest in Julycolumn you buy timeless keepsakes and heirloom elegance with a conscience.
이영은 FROM WHERE
www.fromwhere.co.kr
Watch FROM WHERE’s show here:
“Everywhere with you From Where” is this brand’s motto. A ‘borderless’ brand, they embrace differentness of nationality and culture and positively blend these quirks into their ‘everyday’ clothing. We adore the clean lines and simplicity of the pieces!
박춘무 PCM SQUARE
www.pcmsq.com
This well-established brand sells art and fashion in equal measure. A vibrant blend of fashion and visual arts, each avant-garde piece is a well-thought out creation that considers design and pattern as much as cloth and finishing. We love the subtlety of the cropped bubble coat with its oversized graphic ‘pixels’.
최충훈 DOUCAN
www.doucan.net
Watch DOUCAN’s show here:
Fantasy graphic surface design patterns are used to create unique ensembles. Faux fur and leather are effortlessly combined into garments that are dreamy, vibrant and fresh.
박윤희 GREEDILOUS
www.greedilous.com
A symphony of pattern and print, graphics and plaid, tartan and denim… with silhouettes that vary from body-hugging sheath dresses to voluminous skirt and bomber jacket ensembles, this brand is the ultimate in cutting-edge and forward-thinking creativity.
Watch the GREEDILOUS show here:
최경호/송현희 HOLY NUMBER 7
www.holynumber7.com
Raw-edged, multi-pocket camouflage cargo pants and edgy leather bomber jackets rubbed shoulders with slashed skirts, cut-out tees and graphic prints. Underwear is outerwear and plenty glowing skin is on display.
곽현주 KWAK HYUAN JOO COLLECTION
www.kwakhyunjoo.co.kr
Victorian Gothic meets contemporary avant-garde chic in this exquisite collection varying in colour from red and black to clotted cream. Fabulous lace work is effortlessly mixed with deconstructed, distressed denim, stripes, plaid and tulle. Designer Kwak said, the collection is a “futuristic yet enchanting girlish romantic look.” We absolutely adore every quirky detail in this magical collection.
이청청 LIE
www.liecollection.com
This lifestyle brand with a design ethic that promotes a masculine-feminine duality, combined their signature tailoring with a variety of very interesting fabric combinations.
Classic silhouettes got the avant-garde treatment and were showcased in bold colours as well as pastels, and softened with features like frills and romantic prints. We adore the belted khaki canvas treble belt cinching the waist of a frilly white shirt.
고미진 MAISON NICA
www.maisonnica.com
Watch MAISON NICA’s show here:
Maison Nica’s signature silhouettes are architectural and their choices of fabric – brocade, satin and wool plaid – work very well in achieving the sculptural designs. The company’s motto of “We exist to create a better world for everyone by inventing clothes from the imagination of the future” certainly rings true! We adore the unusual skirt and sleeve shapes, the tiered frills and the luxe layers of the marabou dress.
얼킨ULKIN
@ulkin_official
Watch ULKIN’s show here:
Grunge meets punk in a dystopian universe! This range is deliberately distressed with ripped stockings, slashed trousers and acid-dyed knitted sheaths. We love the black & blue floral knit, which takes the edge off the slashed combat trousers.
김세형 AJO STUDIO
www.ajo-studio.com
Super slouchy street and loungewear were the currency at Ajobyajo. The tried and tested recipe of grungy tartan, camouflage, faux fur and tattoos worked a treat. Voluminous double denim looked very contemporary and covetable.