In the Pynck guide to Bodega in Waterford, Ireland
IT had been a long time in coming, the opportunity to escape the greater confines of the nation’s capital for a long weekend in the Waterford, Ireland countryside, and where better to take a break amid breath taking views of the stunning Comeragh Mountains than Bodega in the heart of the county’s main city.
The nightlife of Waterford City is fairly buzzing, given the trials and tribulations that so many have endured and located in the Apple Market on John Street is Bodega – just Bodega – with no attachment to either ‘restaurant’ or ‘café’ or ‘bistro’, because the place simply doesn’t need it, it is that popular with locals and visitors alike to the ‘Crystal City’.
One could wax poetic about the heady days when Waterford crystal was manufactured – by hand – here, but we, and there were two of us, were there for the food.
Back to Bodega, and the place could well stand on its own, given the appealing Mediterranean décor festooned with work by local artists, which is the key word here: owners Cormac Cronin and Louise Buggy along with Cormac’s brother Donagh go above and beyond to source locally with seafood and shellfish from Dunmore East, free range chicken from nearby Wexford, beef and pork from the Comeragh Mountains and the famous ‘Blaa’ from the artisan baker next door.
“Our real passion is produce, locally sourced and fresh,” said Louise Buggy. “It is Irish tastes and Irish produce and we have a fantastic team of chefs.”
Bodega’s extensive menu, filled with just about everything anyone could want including a variety of spirits, wines and beers made a great start with spicy prawn and chorizo pil pil before moving on to the seabass fillet fish of the day and the 10oz chargrilled Sirloin steak; fresh and delicious and perfectly executed by that team of chefs, the prawns were tender and mildly spiced, the seabass buttery and light and the steak grilled to a perfect medium-rare with prices ranging from €11.90 for the starter to €26 for the fish.
Bodega is one of the lucky restaurants to have survived lockdown along with its sister restaurant Burzza, an authentic pizza and burger place right next door. When the word went out that reopening was on the menu in late July, all of the staff queued up for the come-back.
“When we came back after Covid every one of our staff came back to work,” said Louise. “It has been like opening from the start, long days and nights to try and get it right like the first time 20 years ago.”
Open from Thursday to Sunday with starters and mains ranging from €8.95 to €30 and desserts for €7.90, Bodega is online at www.bodegawaterford.com or email info@bodegawaterford.com.