Paris Fashion Week – Hermès
Designer: Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski
Summer ushers in a rush of freedom. A graceful, confident silhouette, a sensitive second skin that expresses strength and fragility. Reconnecting with the outside and rediscovering sensuality. The rigid lines of aprons had the faintest air of fetish, backed up more insistently by fishnet dresses chain-mailed from bricks of horn. (“Horn-y,” quipped a fellow critic in a text post show.) Coats had built-in scarves that could be rolled up at the front or wrapped tactilely around the neck. Knitted bodies with swimwear-like open backs were informed by the female curves of Hellenic ceramics, a theme echoed in a show constructed like an abstract take on ancient Greek ruins
Structure and fluidity
The lines hug the body to better enhance it, framing without restricting. The clothing liberates, the materials protect, the warm colours tenderly interact.