Berry Bros – Aligoté; rise of other white grape of Burgundy wines
Aligoté; the rise of the other white grape of Burgundy – “truly exciting wines” Jasper Morris MW
In the recent past, Aligoté was mostly produced in a simple, fresh style. A lot of the time they were used as the base for Kir, with the addition of crème de Cassis. The last few years have seen an uptick in interest in this grape within Burgundy, with the Aligoteur movement and “Les Aligoteurs”.
A more aromatic grape than Chardonnay but it needs more warmth to ripen fully, to get the best from the grapes, but has been demoted to cooler sites. Global warming has certainly helped in achieving full ripening but also there are those interested in taking it more seriously. Young winemakers, using the lower cost of Aligoté grapes to get a foothold and more established producers looking for a new place to play at the start of their range, have found joy in this variety.
“Aligoté has taken the wine world by storm in the last two years. The younger generation of vignerons have started to produce some truly exciting wines”
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy. (August 2020)
Not all Aligoté are created equal. There are some forgettable wines out there, so a little care is needed in selection. Aligoté can also attract those wanting to experiment with winemaking techniques, including low / no sulphur and skin contact. The Le Clou 34, Domaine Naudin-Ferrand and Clos des Perrières la Combe, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair fall in that camp. Both excellent wines with great following, as attests their selling out in our recent 2020 en primeur.
I have selected a few worthy examples, two from the 2020 en primeur and two from the 2019 vintage.
2020 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine Rollin Père & Fils
£114 GBP per 12 bottle case in bond
Despite its modest price, Rollin’s Aligoté is regarded as a benchmark for the variety, recognised for its remarkable ageing potential. The vines – one-half over 50 years old – are in the Grande Corvée de Bully, just behind the Hill of Corton. Made entirely in tank with nine months on fine lees, this is chiselled and saline with notable acidity. Drink 2022-2026. 13.0% Alcohol.
“In bottle since mid-August. Glowing lemon and lime, even the nose suggests that this will be relatively full as well as racy, very bouncy, an excellent wine in a classical style plus some extra 2020 volume. Still some gas, fleshier than I was expecting, so the gas is useful. A keeping Aligoté, as ever here. Tasted: October 2021”
(87)/100. 4* Star Rating. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
2020 Bourgogne Aligoté, Comte Armand
£90 GBP per 6 bottle case in bond
This is a blend of purchased grapes from 94-year-old vines of Aligoté Doré in Meursault, and some younger vines in Volnay and Pommard belonging to the estate. It was vinified in 500- and 600-litre puncheons. Always a most interesting and distinctive Aligoté, this is chock-full of acidity, woven into a rich palate with an appealing smoky edge. Drink 2022-2027. 12.5% Alcohol.
“Big crop picked 16th September, below Pommard and Volnay and Meursault. Made half and half in 600 litre barrels and stainless steel. A little deeper in colour and indeed in bouquet than the Chardonnay. Apple and fresh quince, mostly young vine produce, but this is absolutely delicious, and sweeps through to a long finish. Tasted: November 2021”
(87-88)/100. 4* Star Rating. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Clos des Perrières la Combe, Domaine Thibault Liger-Belair
£90 GBP per 6 bottle case in bond
This is a south-facing walled vineyard in the combe of Nuits-St Georges; these are Aligoté Doré vines planted in 1978. The grapes undergo a week-long skin maceration before fermentation in old barrels. The wine will show some phenolic grip from the skin contact, and some nutty oxidative notes from the barrel-ageing. Estimated 2021-2025 (Not Tasted) 13.5% Alcohol.
“Thibault has given this revolutionary Aligoté 6 days of skin contact, then pressed the pulp for 7 hours, before vinifying in normal sized barrels, using older wood. I love the bouquet here. Aligoté now gives a sense of zest without ripping the enamel from one’s teeth. Softer than some years, but still with good acidity, the sensual sensation carries through to a very long finish. Tasted: November 2020”
(88-90)/100. 5* Star Rating. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
2019 Bourgogne Aligoté, Le Clou 34, Domaine Naudin-Ferrand, Burgundy
£210 GBP per 12 bottle case in bond
This is an Aligoté like no other, so atypical that Claire chooses to label it a Vin de France. Remarkably complex, it has aromas of plum, citrus and baked apple. It’s blended from several parcels, each over 60 years old; one, Le Clou, was planted in 1934. The wine combines Aligoté’s electrifying acidity with a dense, palate-coating texture. Drink 2021-2023. 12.0% Alcohol.
“To bottle on Monday when a touch of sulphur will be added. A pale lemon yellow, but more important is the heavenly bouquet, apples, lemon zest, evidently significant dry extract, fills the mouth, adequate acidity, and very persistent. An Aligoté of impeccable character. Tasted: November 2020”
(88-90)/100. 5* Star Rating. Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy.
