COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Autumn/Winter 2022 Part 2: CONCEPTUAL TRENDS

COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK Celebrated Avant Couture with the Dependable Staple Winters Coat being the Star of the Show. Grunge was the Chorus to many a Collection and the Balaclava made more than a Cameo Appearance.

 

All Image Credit COPENHAGEN Fashion Week

 

Period-inspired padded full skirts and tops with balaclavas – at Designer’s Nest

We’ve become accustomed to – and this A/W 2022 season was no exception – Copenhagen Fashion Week being the platform from where a mouth-watering array of new season’s trends get launched.

This season we spotted many trends that ran through the collections, such as nautical and Nordic stripes, classic, functional and practical tailoring and an exciting host of avant-garde collections that were forward-thinking and innovative. Minimalism and sculptural silhouettes were seen in many offerings. As the must-have accessory of the season, balaklavas, were to be seen in many places!

Sportswear-inspired collections (cargo pants in particular) and that dependable staple, denim (most notably so baggy jeans), were also ever-present. The big trend of the season was grunge in its many guises and in autumnal shades as an undercurrent to many of the collections, a trend that we remember fondly from the mid-Eighties. Leather looks also ruled the roost.

Knitwear came in many guises, from the tried-and-tested traditional to the highly imaginative and exaggerated deconstructivist offerings by some of the young designers, most notably so Designer’s Nest. The garment of the season – unsurprisingly, really, considering the guaranteed Nordic freeze! – is the seasonal winters coat, which morphed from shapely, voluminous and enveloping to sleek and close-cut, in fabrics that ranged from traditional herringbone tweed to cosy faux fur, leather and retro-style snakeskin PVC.

It’s time to get up close and personal with the real stars of the shows – the frocks!

 

1. ARCTIC GRUNGE

Eco-warriors in dystopian, camouflaged, marbled, tie-dyed ensembles, wrapped up in ribbed knits and layered padding, appeared in collections by Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen, Designer’s Nest and (di)vision, all offering versions of this super-insulated, cosy winters trend, oftentimes wonderfully grungy and gritty, complete with patchwork, straps and strap-on accessories. We love the paired-down version in chocolate brown by Samsøe & Samsøe, even though this sexy version may leave one’s legs a tad exposed in the Arctic winter!

Shades of tie-dyed green – at Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen

IArctic camouflage – at Iso.Poetism by Tobias Birk Nielsen

Layering, padding and cladding for a frozen winter – at Munthe

Eclecticism in one ensemble – at Holzweiler

Patchwork padding – at (di)vision

Cosy grunge – at Holzweiler

Patchwork, balaclava and strapping – at Designer’s Nest

Marbled fabric and oversized laces – at (di)vision

A sleek eco-warrior! At Samsøe & Samsøe

 

2. THE STRENGTH OF THE STRIPE

Which fashion statement could possibly be more Scandinavian than the stripe? This season this classic trend made its appearance in many guises: from the traditional Breton at Baum & Pferdgarten to bold diagonals and animal-print versions at Samsøe & Samsøe, tie-dyed hoops at Woods Woods, knitted and tie-dyed horizontals at Rabens Saloner, grungy, fine stripes at Kerne.milk, transparent stripes at A.Roege Hove and autumnal shade pinstripes and knitted verticals at Soulland. Without a shadow of a doubt there is a stripe for each occasion this season, whether you intend to ski in your stripes, walk up hills in them, parade them to the office or go clubbing in them, you’re guaranteed to find your stripey soul mate.

Bold diagonal stripes in even bolder shades – at Samsøe & Samsøe

Tie-dyed stripes – at Wood Wood

Classic Breton-type stripes – at Baum & Pferdgarten

Wavy stripes – at Samsøe & Samsøe

Grungy horizontal stripes – at Rabens Saloner

Wide tie-dyed stripes – at Rabens Saloner

Pirate-inspired fine stripes and laces – at Kerne.milk

Transparent hoops – at A.Roege Hove

Faint knitted stripes in autumnal shades – at Soulland

Bold and vertical stripes – at Soulland

Grungy stripes – at Soulland

 

3. 2022 GRUNGE

That androgenous, deliberately disheveled thrift-shop look from the mid-Eighties, made so famous by the likes of Nirvana, was to be seen in many places at Copenhagen Fashion Week (and also on the streets). We love Ganni’s dungarees, and Wood Wood and (di)vision’s offerings in their autumnal shades are so perfectly in tune with the spirit of the moment too!

Patchwork slit dress – at (di)vision

Androgynous fashion – at Wood Wood

Knitted ensemble – at Wood Wood

Androgynous shapes -at Ganni

Printed co-ord – at Wood Wood

 

4. REGENCY CORE

Vintage-inspired (late 18th and early 19th century) fashion with its ribbons and bows, lace and full skirts featured in various guises and accents in many collections, most notably so the fabulous padded skirts and tops with their built-in balaclavas at Designer’s Nest, a stunning velvet and leather dress at Soeren le Schmidt, a full-skirted ensemble at Fassbender and a lacy dress at Day Birger Mikkelsen.

Velvet and leather – at Soeren le Schmidt

Vintage-inspired, asymmetric and lacey, complete with baseball cap – at Fassbender

Cream lace – at Day Birger et Mikkelsen

 

5. COATS CURATED

That perennial workhorse of our winter wardrobes, the dependable coat, was to be seen in many different shapes and sizes – from voluminous to close-cut, from short to floor-sweeping, sleek and padded, plain and printed, brightly coloured as well as neutral, layered or as a stand-alone feature. Schnaynerman’s tweed version, Saks Potts’ python version, Baum & Pferdgarten’s grey pea coat, Mark Kenly Domino Tan’s padded Japanese-inspired overcoat, Wood Wood’s printed version, Tomorrow Denim’s patchwork denim version, Holzweiler’s leather version, Henrik Vibskov’s plaid felted wool coats…. and many other fabulous examples, all pointing in one direction: the coat is the item of the season. Take your pick!

Classic tweed – at Schnaynerman

A classic belted python trench – at Saks Potts

Tweed over lace – at Baum & Pferdgarten

Japanese-inspired shapes – at Mark Kenly Domino Tan

Layering – at Wood Wood

A belted patchwork denim coat with a grungy flavour – at Tomorrow Denim

A floor-length leather coat – at Holzweiler

A bold plaid tangerine and grey teddy coat – at Henrik Vibskov

A caramel and brown belted coat – at Henrik Vibskov

Faux fur – at Malene Birger

Classic coats – at Saks Potts

 

6. AVANT COUTURE

Fashion for the daring! Unusual shapes, artistic expression and unorthodox fabrics make for extraordinary creations, and at Copenhagen A/W 2022 there were many avant-garde pieces to marvel over. Take for example the offerings by Designer’s Nest, Holzweiler and newcomer Jade Cropper, each making us do a double-take on the traditional.

A bottle green and black statement dress with a crocheted balaclava – at Designer’s Nest

A slashed silver top – at Holzweiler

A royal blue statement dress – at Designer’s Nest

A bold knitted sweater with oversized laces – at Designer’s Nest

Asymmetry and laces – at Jade Cropper

 

7. DEPENDABLE DENIM

Denim is a seasonal classic, and an item to be found in just about every wardrobe, but this season’s take on the classic textile and traditional shape is very refreshing. A classic pair of blue jeans is paired with a cape at Tomorrow Denim (whose entire collection was deliciously denim-ey) and Jade Cropper’s pirate skirt with its huge slit is simply divine.

A pair of blue jeans paired with a cape – at Tomorrow Denim

Tangerine denim – at Tomorrow Denim

A pirate skirt – at Jade Cropper

Distressed and silver-leafed denim – at Holzweiler

Gold-leaf double denim – at Ganni

 

8. BLISSFULLY BODY CONSCIOUS

Eighties and Nineties Azzedine Alaia set the tone for the bodycon trend to sneak back onto runways more often than not. Jade Cropper’s, Holzweiler’s, Karne.milk’s, A.Roege Hove’s and Ganni’s versions, amongst others at Copenhagen Fashion Week A/W 2022, were firm favourites !

A bodycon dress in multiple shades – at Jade Cropper

A peep-hole top -at Holzweiler

A shapely chocolate ensemble – at Karne.milk

Body-con sequins – at Ganni

A knitted body-hugging dress – at A.Roege Hove

 

As we say goodbye to COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK AUTUMN/WINTER 2022, we’ll leave you with a few looks from the streets of Copenhagen.

 

Image Credit AcielleStyleDuMond/ Vogue
Mixing textures very effectively here!

Image Credit AcielleStyleDuMond/ Vogue
Anticipating the ‘green’ trend for A/W2022

Image Credit AcielleStyleDuMond/ Vogue
Following the tweed and green trend

Image Credit Refinery29
Tangerine neon and cobalt blue – two key trends of the season were also seen on the streets

Image Credit Refinery29
Neon is the new neutral!

Image Credit AcielleStyleDuMond/ Vogue
Grungy fashion in the streets!

 

Goodbye and Hej hej!

 

Cecile Paul

Author at Pynck

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