MILAN FASHION WEEK AUTUMN WINTER 2022: MOSCHINO / BLUMARINE

by Cecile Paul · Published February 27, 2022 · Updated January 24, 2024

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MOSCHINO’s Tongue-in-Cheek Collection Muses Over ‘Gilt Without Guilt’ while BLUMARINE Honours the Naughty Nineties, the Genius of Helmut Newton and Legendary Beauty Eva Herzigova.

All Image and Video Credit: Milan Fashion Week and Participating Designers

Tik-Tok! Fancy wearing your Louis XV grandfather clock on your chest a-la 2001 A Space Odyssey? – at Moschino

Milan has carved out a reputation as the most glamorous of the Big Four fashion weeks. No surprises there! For Autumn Winter 2022 the fashionable city has put up a largely in-person fashion week event with a whopping 57 physical shows and 59 presentations and 18 digital events! The shows have been presented in fabulous locations and attended by huge crowds, who were only too delighted for fashion to return to some semblance of normalcy after the pandemic.

We lapped up the gorgeous offerings at the different shows and made a little selection for you from two of the undisputed heavyweights of Italian fashion. We adored the tongue-in-cheek pieces at Moschino and thought the sexy offerings at Blumarine were simply adorable. Come along, indulge in our hand-picked selection of eye candy below!

MOSCHINO

A tapestry-inspired dress – at Moschino

Moschino has never shied away from the outrageous or the eccentric! Limits have always been pushed and a rather macabre tongue-in-cheek social commentary invited by their creations. And all of this against the backdrop of razor sharp tailoring, impeccable craftsmanship and unlimited attention to every miniscule detail.

Now, whether this is a time in the history of the world to be extravagant, overtly opulent or over-the-top (behind the scenes creative director Jeremy Scott was sporting a T-shirt – like one of his models, with the logo ‘Gilt without Guilt’) is another question altogether. The theme to the Fall 2022 collection is the bedroom scene from Stanley Kubrick’s iconic 2001: A Space Oddysey. Models represented facets of life from one of the most bizarre bedrooms in cinematic history – a strangely beautiful assemblage of Louis XVI-style decor (including Renaissance sculptures, dressers, grandfather clocks, Persian rugs and paintings) all set upon a sterile, illuminated white floor.

The clothes paid homage to the famous bedroom: curvaceous, embroidered armchair in the shape of a strapless cocktail dress, a quilted red-and-gold collared ‘sofa’ coat, an elaborate black and gold period picture frame dress, a sculptural mosaic vase dress, a fringed Persian rug dress and many more bizarre tributes. All very escapist and surreal!

Clearly there still is a place for frivolity, self-indulgence and a good dollop of humour in fashion? The audience at Moschino’s Fall 2022 show in Milan most certainly show thought so.

Watch the video of Moschino’s show here:

A curvacious dress inspired by a Louis XV armchair – at Moschino

Quilted gilt – at Moschino

Black and gold floor-sweeping dress inspired by a gold mirror – at Moschino

A mosaic vase-inspired creation – at Moschino

Wearing a Persian rug? – at Moschino

Room-divider charm – at Moschino

Tongue-in-cheek Moschino – at Moschino

Lampshade charm – at Moschino

BLUMARINE

A sexy symphony in pink with its butterfly bra top – at Blumarine

Blumarine’s ultra-feminine, sexy, boudoir-style fashion had a golden moment in 1995 – one of many – when iconic photographer Helmut Newton (1920 – 2004) shot an unforgettable campaign for Anna Molinari’s Blumarine, his model none other than the exquisite young Eva Herzigova, with legs extending into infinity in a black satin skirt with a slit that ends just below her bottom, black gloves and a heart-shaped hat, pouting provocatively over her shoulder.

The velvet hearts that Eva Herzigova wore in the Nineties campaign reappeared in this collection and some pieces like a PVC jumpsuit had overt sex-appeal, bordering on the fetish. Faux fur in strong colours contrasted with, and softened the vinyl and patent-leather pieces. An unforgettable ensemble was the butterfly bra-top with its matching skirt.

The collection – as ever – offered its fair share of slinky, skin-tight bits-of-nothing dresses, tops and skirts. The pastels that Blumarine is synonymous with were reinforced in this collection by a darker palette of black, bold red and purple– no doubt a tribute to photographer Helmut Newton’s mysterious and atmospheric memorable photographic input all those years ago.

Lace, sequin and pearl embroidery and embellishments enhanced a palette that ranged from pastel pink to nude, tomato red to black. Oversized pearl belts, striking flower corsages, softest faux fur handbags and Forties-style fascinators complete with netting rounded off the looks. Simply delicious!

Slashed and front-ruched dresses simply couldn’t get any sexier if they tried! Large faux fur coats over satin ensembles oozed comfortable luxe. Oversized knits – cardigans with their trademark Blumarine faux fur collars, wide-sleeved pullovers and knitted coats were divinely sumptuous and one could straightaway imagine yourself wearing these, perhaps more so than you could the skimpy tops and see-through dresses.

This collection may have its roots in the Nineties, but there’s nothing backward-looking about it. It’s modern and sassy and purrs with sex-appeal. As for Eva Herzigova – today at 48 she is as strong, confident and as vampish as in 1995. She not only provided the inspiration for this Fall collection (together with the spirit of Helmut Newton and that extraordinary fashionable era, the mid Nineties), but most befittingly this sensational muse and model closed Blumarine’s show on behalf of creative director Nicola Brognano at Milan Fashion Week Fall 2022.