YOHJI YAMAMOTO PARIS FASHION WEEK AUTUMN WINTER 2022

by Cecile Paul · Published March 5, 2022 · Updated September 29, 2023

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YOHJI YAMAMOTO Refuses to Let Anything Rain on his New-Romantic Parade, with the Master of Avant-Garde Staying True to his Iconic Silhouettes and Signature Monotones.

All Image and Video Credit: Yohji Yamamoto

A headpiece in the shape of an umbrella complete with rain, 3-D lacy stockings finish off the picture

Is there anything new under the sun? The answer is yes – albeit perhaps not radically so. Evidently Yohji Yamamoto keeps digging deep to haul out more of that special magic that he’s been producing over the past 50 years, each time with a fresh take on the old. Master tailor, master of avant-garde and very much master of his own creative destiny, the inimitable Yohji Yamamoto has long overtaken the 5 decade mark in his remarkable contributions towards fashion. Pushing 80, Yamamoto has witnessed umpteen significant world events, seen an infinite number of trends come and go and unfailingly keeps inspiring a multitude of designers. His eponymous brand is instantly recognizable – season after season – with its distinctive silhouettes and dark, rebellious, eccentric overtones and this Autumn Winter 2022/3 was no exception.

The execution and orchestration of Yohji Yamamoto’s runway show proved yet again that the hand of the master was present in each and every nuance and detail – from the design of the iconic clothing to the chosen music for the show. And this master was as deliberate, as unhurried (Yamamoto’s wonderful shows are notoriously long) and as meticulous as he’s been over the past 5 decades. This was old-school, exquisite execution, with models walking really slowly in their trademark flat boots or trainers on a blank canvas, crystal chandeliers overhead – so that the audience could take in and appreciate every single fold and crevice, every impeccable twist and drape, and every genius master stroke in the layering and juxtapositions that composed each ensemble.

Denim – an old Yohji staple – got the Yohji treatment – blue and black denim was bleached, layered, asymmetrically cut and deconstructed to resemble a new breed of shirt dresses and jackets with ragged and irregular hems, backs and fronts at odds, many in combination with Yohji’s beloved black Japanese cotton. The voluminous ‘milkmaid’ skirts that are so typical of the designer’s silhouette were ever-present. Virginal white – head to toe, and in some cases combined with black – shirts and cleverly tailored jackets were layered over frilled, full skirts and trousers, with white trainers and artful, squiggly antenna-like headpieces completing the picture.

Lace in the form of three-dimensional, tactile leggings as well as lacy sleeves, dresses and skirts added another layer of exquisite sophistication to this darkly New-Romantic and allegorical collection. The most exceptional ensembles came in the shape of puffer coats with billowing, oversized cuffs, which were nothing short of pure sculpture. Tiny shocks of colour were added to the mix in the shape of the odd pair of gloves, ribbed sweater or polo neck jumper. The show ended with models in densely padded umbrella-eque skirts, layers of sashes draped across their shoulders, their headpiece an umbrella complete with rain!

One can’t help but wonder whether the sage that is Yohji Yamamoto was trying to tell his audience in 2022 that there’s the metaphorical stormy weather ahead, and best to be prepared? No doubt Yohji fans will respond to this message and lap up another precious collection of future classics from one of the true masters of design of our time.

Watch Yohji Yamamoto’s show here: