SOUTH AFRICA FASHION WEEK – Autumn/Winter 2023 Part 2

SOUTH AFRICA FASHION WEEK Wowed with its Glamourous Take on Gender-Inclusive Collections, with Designers Pulling Out All the Stops to Showcase Pieces that Evoke the Spirit of Modern Africa.

A pop of ACID LIME couldn’t be more on trend, with the @bamcollective Cacti Coat.
t@abulelengcangata photographed by @austinmalema in the Cacti Coat – at The Bam Collective


All Image Credit South Africa Fashion Week and South Africa Fashion Week on Instagram, Designers on Instagram


South Africa Fashion Week steamed ahead with the traditional ‘menswear’ brands showcasing their collections towards the end of the week. That said, many brands showed full gender-inclusivity with gender-neutral, elegant and mouth-wateringly ‘must-have’ ensembles on display on the runway.

Trend-setting colours – primary shades, neon and acid, and ever-present staples black and white, patterns – from geometric stripes to new-age emblyms, and shapes – close-cut tailoring as well as avant-garde asymmetry, were a masterclass in forward-thinking fashion. All-in-all, everything about the shows was a reflection of Africa’s ever-present sunshine and blue skies, its white sandy beaches and above all, the joyful spirit of the people of the continent.

Many hot and trendsetting brands supported the initiative – the likes of mobile phone giant Oppio, Cruz Voka, Mac cosmetics and the spectacular Mall Of Africa. Backstage was abuzz with designers putting final tweaks to their collections, photographers snapping away at all the beauty, gorgeous models being prepped and talented hair and beauty wizards working their magic behind the scenes.

Sit back and enjoy the contagious energy and vibrancy of these collections. Get in touch with the designers should you want to secure your very own piece of African sunshine in a frock or suit!


A flurry of frantic activity BEHIND THE SCENES …



Rub shoulders with the fabulous fashionistas in the FRONT ROW and on the SOCIAL SCENE …


Meet the DESIGNERS …


Arguably one of the brightest local talents, Laduma Ngxokolo’s Xhosa-inspired, modern design continues to propel the Maxhosa signature’s widening impact on the local and international fashion world. AW23 revealed yet another exciting edition of this uniquely African, contemporary identity.

Image Credit Maxhosa on Instagram




 The AW23 Coffee collection draws inspiration from the designer’s cultural roots to re-imagine the paisley pattern of her Greek lineage and the curlicues of the Koran, in a palette of cream, white, sand and black. Silhouettes are inspired “by the streets, for the streets.” Clean T-shirts and jeans feature unexpected, detailed patterns which give each garment a distinctive story.




Ntando’s collection for AW 2023 speaks of extraordinary pattern engineering, unusual and intricate finishing and wonderful use of colour and trims. We adore the contrasting piping, the casual shapes, the layering and pops of red! Jade works wonderfully well to accentuate the black ensembles.




 Designer Calvin Lunga Cebekhulu produced a crafted collection called Wear Me with Kindness, I am Your Armour. We adore the non-binary shapes of the ensembles in pinks and purples in this joyous range of streetwear!




With an extraordinary eye for pattern and design, this designer really knocked our socks off! We adore the co-ord chevron knits in their primary shades as well as the stripes and inspired headgear.

Image Credit Abantu on Instagram




This brand has an African aesthetic with modern design. A mix of conventional textures, prints and minimalist design, Refuse Clothing Brand produces timeless streetwear with a quirky, gritty, cheeky edge.


GUGUBYGUGU @gugubygugu

 This designer’s unapologetically bold, colourful love of experimenting with knits in natural fibres such as mohair is ingenious. We love the tactile, crafty element that’s part and parcel of her unique handwriting.




 Kagiso Matlaisane is a streetwear designer who launched Foy Bear brand in May 2022, exploring alternative methods of developing sustainable fashion. Her AW 2023 collection interprets “spinning”, a South African motorsport sub-culture which is a township-born version of “drifting” with sustainable garments that can be worn in multiple ways.




 Ipantsula is a collaboration between Kabelo Legodi and Sthembiso Mchunu, fusing the Ipantsula style from 1990s with its distinctive baggy silhouettes and branding, with luxe streetwear. It’s a nostalgic look back to an iconic township style from a couple of decades ago – and a modern take on the latter, too.




This is traditional knitwear with a modern twist for men and women. This season’s collection takes its inspiration from A1 Grand Prix motorsport racing. The feminine side of the alpha male biker is softened using knits while the use of off-cuts to create elaborate embroidery references the vision to align with a sustainable fashion ethos.




 Inspired by the vulgar excesses of the Bullingdon Club, this collection taps into the aesthetic of “the lad” presenting a modern take on the boys’ club and updating staples associated with this style, from pinstriped tailcoats, button-ups and bow ties to cardigans, varsity bombers and rugby jerseys.


FRANC ELIS @franc_elis

 A stalwart Johannesburg-based designer known for his sophisticated and well-tailored garments and shirting created an AW 2023 collection that is sleek and vibrant, in striking shades and colour-blocking combinations.

Image Credit Franc Elis on Instagram




 The AW 23 Ephymol collection sees Ephraim Molingoana create a playful, eclectic and gender fluid collection that explores the feminine polarity of masculinity. Timeless, bespoke luxury remain the hallmarks of one of Johannesburg’s best loved designer signatures.




Deeply rooted in Soweto street culture, this brand offers an AW 23 collection of expressive streetwear, representing a lifestyle that was born in the early 1980s in Africa and includes influences such as skateboarding, graffiti, travel, punk, hardcore, kwaito, reggae, hip hop, the emerging amapiano and club culture as well as the art scene in downtown city centre areas.

Image Credit Loxion Kulca on Instagram

Image Credit Loxion Kulca on Instagram



Cecile Paul

Author at Pynck

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