Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO 2023 A/W

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From subtle, sophisticated tailoring details to wild expressions of fashion fantasy, Tokyo Fashion Week is like an oversize designer plate of sushi; there’s something irresistible for everyone.

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How do you tulle? Viviano Sue brand combines Eastern and Western cultural influences to craft his edgy streetwear. Cutting edge menswear by De Caffeine Homme. Contemporary fabrics applied to traditional kimonos, Jotaro Saito. Tailored, elegant menswear by Irenisa. An explosion of colorful gowns by Tomo Koizumi. All images credit: rakutenfashionweektokyo.com unless noted.

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Tulle fantasy dressing in a kaleidoscope of candy colors. Viviano Sue.

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Designer Viviano Sue considers tulle an everyday fabric. His devoted followers wholeheartedly agree.

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Double breasted midi length coat in an unexpected sherbet orange, flaunting an attractive horizontal texture. Viviano Sue.

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Entrance maker. Metallic gold coat with voluminous black taffeta sleeves. The long train adds to the drama. Viviano Sue.

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A contrast of dimensions. Ruffled blouson top paired with skinny floral leggings. Viviano Sue.

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Charming wallpaper floral trench with coordinated boots. Viviano Sue.

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Tuxedo top coordinated with bubble skirt for a sophisticated play on proportions. Viviano Sue.

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Hot pink tulle bouffant top with coordinated tulle bloomers. Viviano Sue.

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Lustrous gold suit ready for the Oscars! Viviano Sue.

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De Caffeine Homme designer Avizmo Jo crafts modern, stylish menswear featuring innovative details.

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This interesting coat has built-in luggage compartments. De Caffeine Homme.

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Smart black suit with leather trim. De Caffeine Homme.

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Sleek suit with imaginative inverted sleeves. De Caffeine Homme.

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Jotaro Saito is one of Japan’s top designers of contemporary kimonos for both men and women. His stunning store is located on the Ginza.

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Jotaro Saito. Traditional happi coat worn over a men’s kimono.

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Jotaro Saito. Striking black and white design.

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Jotaro Saito. Note that men wear a sash lower on the waist than a women’s obi.

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Pretty floral kimono by Jotaro Saito.

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Layering is very popular in Japanese fashion design. Irenisa.

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Full legged trousers, knit turtleneck under leather trimmed vest. Irenisa.

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Sky blue trench over full navy trousers. Irenisa.

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Layered outerwear. Irenisa.

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Black shawl collar coat with white trim, accented with elegant scarf. Irenisa.

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This was the first runway show for designers Yu Kobayashi and Yuji Abe. The talented duo spotlights tailored craftsmanship and endeavor to produce elegant apparel with a sense of humor. They push the boundaries by incorporating ancient Japanese dyeing techniques, such as the 17th century method used to dye this ensemble. This is a modern menswear brand to watch. Irenisa.

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A voluminous arrangement of colorful tulle becomes a party that you slip into and then head off to another party. Tomo Koizumi.

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Tomo Koizumi, the Japanese Master of Ruffles, in his studio. Tomo dresses celebrities, singers, stars and all lovers of capacious pouf. Image: wwd.com.

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Froufrou and frothy ruffles, corseted. Tomo Koizumi.

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Flamboyant fluffy frock in stand-out magenta. Tomo Koizumi.

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The power of pouffy. Hombre ruffles with coordinated cloak fit for an empress. Tomo Koizumi.

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Old fashioned simplicity with a modern edge. Chono.

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Hand produced textiles are designed by Wataru Nakazono for Chono.

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Each Chono garment includes a brand-specific “Descriptive Label” that indicates the people involved in the creation of the garment to convey the importance of Japanese craftsmanship.

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The Chono brand focuses on exquisite textiles. Watch the videos showing how these incredible fabrics are produced here. You will be amazed.

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Chono. Layered tops with hand printed polka dot skirt. Watch the printing process here.

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Southwestern Native American poncho design and leggings by Seveskig. Crocheted buffalo headpiece is optional.

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Graffiti streetwear coordinated with a cropped fur jacket. Seveskig.

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Sheer blouse, vest with a Native American reference and a crocheted face mask that sends a message of both protection and delicate beauty. Seveskig.

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Interesting layering of sheer lingerie over a leather jacket, midi skirt and boots. Seveskig.

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Cool girl look. Wool varsity jacket over Buffalo check maxi skirt, accessorized with a stunning wolf. Seveskig. Designer Takanori Nagano’s specialty is leather goods. His leather wear is characterized by the use of wild leather.

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Sleeveless red coat paired with burgundy and red knitwear by Hiroko Koshino, one of Japan’s top womenswear designers for over 60 years.

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Amorphic mixed colors make this color block puffer unique. Hiroko Koshino.

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Sweet pin stripe overalls with outsized pockets and flattering draped trousers over a dolman blouse. Hiroko Koshino.

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Funnel neck poncho featuring floral buttons. Hiroko Koshino.

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Mixed up layered tartans. Hiroko Koshino.

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Asymmetrical tuxedo and slim trousers. Hiroko Koshino.

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How funky is this giant poppy coat over skinny leggings with matching poppy tote bag? You have to love this play on proportions. Hiroko Koshino.

Hope you enjoyed Tokyo Fashion Week 2023 Autumn/Winter!

 

Diane Weisbeck

Diane Weisbeck is a native New Yorker. A luxury lifestyle content writer, Diane was a retail buyer for Lord & Taylor’s flagship store, a product design/developer for Saks Fifth Avenue’s corporate office and a Director of Retail for major museums and high end retailers. She assists global luxury brands with their marketing and brand strategies and is also a Fair Trade corporate art consultant.

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