PARIS MENSWEAR WEEK
Spring/Summer 2025:
DIOR, DRIES VAN NOTEN, ISSEY MIYAKE,
LOUIS VUITTON, YOHJI YAMAMOTO, LOEWE, JUNYA WATANABE MAN
and COMME DES GARCON HOMME PLUS

by Cecile Paul · Published June 25, 2024 · Updated June 25, 2024

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Theatrics and Modesty were two Sides of the same Coin in Paris. And there was much Nostalgia as the Fashion World said Goodbye to Maestro Dries Van Noten who presented his very last Show.

At Loewe

Image Credit Paris Menswear Fashion Week and Vogue

Paris has been experiencing glorious mid-summer vibes – long warm days and balmy evenings along the River Seine during mid-June. Add to that scene the anticipation and frenzy of Paris Menswear Fashion Week, where the global fashion heavyweights gather together in the fashion capital of the world, ready to put on the show of all shows.

Trends were aplenty in Paris, most noteworthy perhaps the enduring love-affair men’s fashion’s been having over the past few seasons with the humble pair of shorts – it seems very few designers opted to NOT show some knee! We saw shorts in all guises at Louis Vuitton, Dior, Issey Miyake, Comme des Garcon and Dries Van Noten.

As for colour, the perennial classic shade of black was juxtaposed with plenty soft shades: pastels, putty, mushroom, cream, camel and beige. Pink had its fashion moment too, as seen at Comme des Garcon (shocking pink!) and Dries Van Noten (subtler hues).

Ties made a cameo appearance at Issey Miyake and Louis Vuitton, bucket hats were a head-gear trend at Issey Miyake and Dior, and the trench coat, as ever, was a steadfast classic in many collections.

Sit back and enjoy our selection of the best moments of Paris Menswear Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025!

DIOR HOMME

Watch Dior Homme’s show here:

It was pretty much a South African-inspired affair at Dior. South African ceramicist Hylton Nel, famous for his passion for creating animal shapes, was responsible for the five giant cats on the runway. Creative director Kim Jones (this was his 60th show for the house of Dior!) worked hand in hand with Nel to create the iconic animal shapes as seen on knitwear, outerwear, tailoring, socks an badges.

South African artisans created, in conjunction with famed milliner Stephen Jones, the beaded fringed bucket hats the models sported on the runway.

Layered and roomy silhouettes in beige, putty, mushroom and pastels floated across the runway. Tailored pieces in two-toned shades rubbed shoulders with workwear in the shape of Thai fisherman’s trousers and beautiful knitwear featured Nel’s beloved animals and quirky writing – “Dior for my real friends”. (Incidentally, the floral jacket in one of the looks took 600 hours of embroidery to complete.)

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

At Dior

LOUIS VUITTON

Watch Louis Vuitton’s show here:

Creative director Pharrell Williams said of his collection that drew oodles of inspiration from Africa and a group of African designers who worked alongside Williams on this extraordinary collection, “They all have a reverence for our homeland, the homeland of the species. The way they think about things is so beautiful…And you know, all the colors come from black. One of the looks in fact was based on a kaleidoscopic pattern used for the Pan-African airline Air Afrique (1960s – 2002).

Magical camouflage patterns were mixed ingeniously with pixelated python skin, and the map of the world with Africa in its centre was a prominent and recurring feature. Williams poignantly said, “The intention here is to not be so loud, but to be very intentional in the details. We live in a culture that zooms in and zooms out. So I wanted it to be that when you zoom in the stitch and fabric is unlike anything you’ve ever seen or felt before. And when you zoom out, you understand that we love the world.” The attention to every detail was phenomenal as the viewer found themselves literally zooming in and out of the fabric surface designs.

The timeless luxury of the Louis Vuitton brand surfaced in every look – a pyjama suit was lined in pearls, a sumptuous fur coat came in the softest of pastels, the famous LV logo was ever-so-subtly embossed on leather and denim and woven into jacquard, and pearl-buttoned over-shirts came lovingly hand-embroidered.

It goes without saying that the iconic trunks and luggage took centre stage in this vast and ambitious offering. The vast collection is a feat of incredible workmanship, artistry and an unparalleled design ethos. Pharrell Williams pulled off yet another totally unforgettable visual experience.

At Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitton

At Louis Vuitto

ISSEY MIYAKE

Watch Issey Miyake’s show here:

This collection of predominantly pastel shades (bar the odd tangerine plaid ensemble) was inspired by the wind and by the playfulness of kites.

Layered looks, often featuring the season’s main trend of shorts, were interchanged with swishy, roomy coats and cosy shawls. Pops of underwear showed boldly from under trousers and shorts; floppy bucket hats, beanies, straps, vibrant belts, roomy pockets and neckties were other features of this floaty offering.

The feel of the collection was definitely one of flux, movement and airy ventilation. It has a decidedly sporty side to it – these are clothes one can definitely move and dance in, perhaps even jump out of a plane with! (We love the vibrant jumpsuit!)

At Issey Miyake

At Issey Miyake

At Issey Miyake

At Issey Miyake

At Issey Miyake

At Issey Miyake

At Issey Miyake

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

Watch Yohji Yamamoto’s show here:

The iconic Charlotte Rampling ended Yohji Yamamoto’s show wearing oversized plaid trousers, suspenders and a fedora, some of the trademarks of this maestro’s repertoire that we’ve come to know and love over the many decades of Yohji brilliance.

The collection, as ever, had the hand of Yohji in every miniscule detail – from the uneven hemlines to the typical deconstructivist feel of each ensemble. Knickerbockers, white shirts, layering, chains, hand-painted lettering and graphics on fabric surfaces were all there, and so much more.

This time around yet another layer was added to the complexity: there was a definitive aura of serenity and timeless elegance embodied in the silhouettes of the maxi overcoats, robes and tunics. (Yamamoto confessed to his return to Buddhism…)

At Yohji Yamamoto

At Yohji Yamamoto

At Yohji Yamamoto

At Yohji Yamamoto

At Yohji Yamamoto

JUNYA WATANABE MAN

Watch Junya Watanabe Man’s show here:

We got served all the quintessential edgy elements of this brand and more: patchwork, tartan, denim and ripped fabric, all under the guise of the ever-present avant-garde, deconstructed punk veneer complete with 1980s hairstyles and black lipstick on models.

Silhouettes were close-cut and pretty formal, often rooted in patent leather loafers. Distressed denim looked contemporary, and one of the most memorable looks was the double denim ensemble with its avant-garde denim jacket-capelet.

Deconstructed Levis added to the workwear feel of the collection, juxtaposed by the formality of cheeky bow-ties. The ebony and ivory white shirt and black bow-tie paired with the patchwork tartan trousers was another inspired variation on the theme.

At Junya Watanabe Man

At Junya Watanabe

At Junya Watanabe

At Junya Watanabe

At Junya Watanabe

At Junya Watanabe

COMME DES GARCON HOMME PLUS

Rei Kawakubo presented a playful and characteristically rebellious collection, its highlights the various stunning shocking pink, brocade and vibrantly striped ensembles – a slight diversion for a designer who traditionally feels most at home working in the monochromatic shades of black and white. It was high drama on the runway, all striding to the eccentric soundtrack of a ballet that was first commissioned for Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes.

And theatre it was – we expected no less from the seasoned Kawakubo. Models wore whimsical headpieces entirely constructed from colourful hairpins. Ruffled shoes, Elizabethan clown collars, transparent tulle overlays, oversized bows and deconstructed outerwear were all part of the high drama of this collection.

The layering was inspired: it was as if each look would evolve into another by peeling off the layers. The voluminous coats and jackets with their padding on the hips yet again reminded one of Kawakubu’s signature anti-conventional design ethos. So wondrously strange and so, so beautiful.