PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING/SUMMER 2027

by Cecile Paul · Published October 6, 2026 · Updated October 6, 2026

Hollywood Glam and Classic Leopard Spots at Dries Van Noten, and Inward-Looking Brand Nostalgia at Chloé and Christian Dior.

DRIES VAN NOTEN, CHRISTIAN DIOR, CHLOÉ, MAISON MARGIELA, SCHIAPARELLI

and MIU MIU

At Maison Margiela

Image Credit Paris Fashion Week and WWD

DRIES VAN NOTEN

Watch Dries Van Noten’s Show here: https://www.fhcm.paris/en/collection/dries-van-noten-womenswear-springsummer-2027undefined

A thread of uber-glamorous nostalgia was woven through Julian Klausner’s collection for Dries Van Noten. Think French Riviera 1950s and ‘60s, and you’ve nailed this look at arguably one of the most talked about collections of Paris Fashion Week S/S 2027.

The collection pivoted around a ‘fantasised’ version of Hollywood – glitzy and glam, with faux movie posters rendered in technicolour across the silk slip dresses, sarongs and skirts. V-neck dresses, blouses and skirts dripped with colourful embroidered rhinestones and crystal – the outfits literally resembling giant, exquisite jewels.

Large appliqued star motifs, a la Hollywood, embellished dresses and tops (just in case one missed the Hollywood theme). The eternally most glamorous of all classic motifs, the leopard print, was going to play a starring role. Leopard spots came in many guises, and some of the most effective renditions were the ones clad with a sheer swooping overlay of chiffon.

The palette was beyond inspired too. From the soft, gauzy shades of dawn – beige, blush pink, cream and nude – to dusk and moonlight shades of deep purple and inky blue. It was as if (and no doubt deliberately so) the surfaces of the garments were made to have a blurred effect, and to add to that visual illusion, the finest silk organza was layered over the flamingo, star and floral effects. Literally yet another genius layer of fabulousness!

Sparkly brooches and colourful pins in the shapes of elegant swallows or clusters of flowers not only decorated, but also gathered and provided shape and volume, to the straps of the satin blouses, the slinky silk dresses and skirts.

As a total contrast to all the glamour Klausner’s models wore rather mannish cardigans and practical shoes – pumps and peep-toes made for walking!

Klausner said his intention was to give women the chance to add some glamour and sparkle to their everyday wardrobes. And honestly, who doesn’t like to play dress-up?

Be the heroine of your own cinematic story: dig deep into granny’s jewellery box, raid the vintage and thrift stores and pile on the sparkly gems. Klausner even gives you permission to wear a comfy pair of shoes! No excuses.

At Dries Van Noten

CHLOÉ

Watch Chloé’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uJrixj4jc2M

This offering by Chemena Kamali for Chloé was aptly entitled “The Obsession Collection”. And honestly, for those who wear this brand, it couldn’t have been a more personalised rendition, neither could it have stayed closer to the beloved brand identity.

All the Chloé hallmarks – the romantic broderie anglaise, guipere lace, 3D flowers, 960s babydoll dresses, the endearing floral embroidery, the lingerie worn as outerwear, the 1970s outerwear, the transparent vinyl raincoats and the fishermen’s jackets were all there, paying tribute to a collection that was unmistakeably ‘Chloé.’

The palette was relatively restrained – white, black, butter yellow, ballet pink and rusty orange. Pops of super bright colours punctuated this mellow palette: hello bath duck yellow and fire engine red trench coats!

The outerwear contrasted strongly with the lacy, poufy dresses, the crisp cotton blouses and skirts. Coats with storm flaps, caped backs, protective hats and deep pockets meant business. Kamali deliberately let lacy slips and frou-frou dresses peek out from underneath solid, serious protective wear, she calls these “romantic harnesses”.

And Chloé’s Kamali seems to have hit the nail on the head. We, for one, are totally obsessed with this collection. We simply can’t get enough of these “romantic harnasses”! It’s as if the delicate balance between exposure and protection in this S/S offering plays directly into the zeitgeist of what we need (and want) right now.

At Chloé

CHRISTIAN DIOR

Watch Christian Dior’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kEVyUMhIGU

Oh, one felt such a lightness of being watching Jonathan Anderson’s romantic affair for Christian Dior! Thanks to the diaphanous nature of the skirts, dresses and blouses, this collection of airy pieces was literally a breath of fresh air on yet another scorching day at the runways in Paris.

The set itself reinforced the dream-like quality of the collection: a pagoda wrapped around the Bassin Octogonal in the Tuileries, with camphor trees shrouded in mist. Think a contemporary, floaty ballet set, and you’re halfway there.

The flimsy pleated chiffon skirts were so wispy and feathery, they resebled a bird’s wing in the way they were cleverly patterned. An ink black chiffon dress with a few white accents was reminiscent of an exotic black bird with shiny plumes. The sheer blouses – some with 3-D extensions – looked ethereal, and the fringing at the hems of ‘solid’ dresses transformed these into swishy, airy pieces.

Boxy Houndstooth jackets with a delicate overlay of chiffon contrasted the frivolous skirts to great effect, but still looked lightweight. Even the Prince of Wales stripes, tartan and pinstripes – traditionally heavyweight – followed the theme of lightness.

The craftsmanship was something to behold. Some of the jackets were created from hundreds of hand-dyed and hand-assembled petals, intricate body-chains twisted down models’ bodies like wired headphones and some of the circle skirts were made of no fewer than ten delicate layers of ivory chiffon!

Allegedly Jonathan Anderson said in a preview that he liked the idea that everything, “and the shoe” could all fit together in a shoebox. And we’re sure that many Christian Dior wearers are nodding in agreement – after all, who wants so cart 3 suitcases around the French Riviera if a vanity case can contain your entire lightweight Christian Dior S/S capsule collection?

At Christian Dior

MAISON MARGIELA

Watch Maison Margiela’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4i04q9rwQc

Creative director Glenn Martens’ show for Maison Margiela most certainly had chins wagging front row. And it wasn’t just a function of the ear-splittingly shrill electric guitar soundtrack on the runway…

The theme was ‘Hard and Soft’ – and Martens demonstrated this duality throughout the collection. The coats (like the tailored camel trench coat with its dramatic neckline) were definitely sculptural, but it was the treatment of the slinky dresses, the T-shirts and turtleneck sweaters with their corsets pressed underneath the softness of the fabric, that looked refreshingly new and covetable.

One of the most photographed dresses of fashion week was a simple white sleeveless dress with a c theatrical corseted bodice created from oversized flattened silverwear. Another standout piece, a statuesque draped gold gown, could have been moulded from clay!

As a total contrast some of the pieces (like a black crocheted dress and a lacy black wrapover chiffon gown) were renditioned without any under pieces, just skin, looking great without corsets, bodices or support.

Unfortunately the floral prints didn’t come up roses.

That said, the deliberate mix of ‘Hard and Soft’ throughout this collection – the tailoring, the drama, the draping, and the structure of some pieces as opposed to the looseness of others – most certainly made for an offering with an edge.

At Maison Margiela

SCHIAPARELLI

Watch Schiaparelli’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HTLc1RmRBM

Schiaparelli has never been a fashion house for shrinking violets, and over the years we’ve witnessed some super theatrical collections. It’s Daniel Roseberry’s seventh year at Schiaparelli, and there was a wonderful ease and confidence in his approach to this almost monochromatic /SS 2027 collection.

It’s as if the pieces were deliberately deconstructed – tops became bottoms, fronts became backs, necklines became hemlines – and the entire luxe caboodle was up for reassembling. (Not quite 1940s wartime’s ‘make do and mend’, mind! More ‘mix and match and put your own individual spin on it”).

The unexpected quirks and unconventional surprises were everywhere to be seen – albeit perhaps a little less in your face than in previous seasons. A tuxedo dress, supported by hourglass boning and worn backwards, opened the show. The showstoppers kept coming: An asymmetrical, one shoulder sheath dress in champagne looked like a piece of twirling calligraphy…

A moulded, shiny black leather bodice framed by frills was echoed in its skirt, equally sculpted and dramatic. Sunray pleats exploded from the centre of a little black dress. A champagne tuxedo jacket with an extravagant black bow exposed gold nipple caps. (we told you Schiaparelli is not for your average wallflower…)

There’s no doubt that Roseberry and his team already has a name of a famous client pinned on each of these pieces. The rest of us can only marvel.

At Schiaparelli

At SchiaparellI

MIU MIU

Watch Miu Miu’s Show here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=61Mv6L4y0YU

Miuccia Prada has been systematically paring back frivolities over the past few seasons. She has the knack – like almost no other designer has – to not only perfectly pinpoint the zeitgeist, but to go even further, and predict the future of what we’ll crave fashionwise.

This season’s offering is entitiled “Here and Now” and is a take on the massive influence of sportswear on pret-a-porter, and even couture.

Not only was sportswear taking centre stage – cropped jersey tops and running shorts, track tops and every other rendition of athleisure, it was effortlessly integrated into even the most glamorous eveningwear looks, like they’ve always been joined at the hip.

Traditional pleated tweed skirts and your granny’s houndstooth jacket looked perfectly modern and ‘now’ worn with a gym top or surf top underneath. Elegant dresses and skirts were grounded in running shoes. Pieces deliberately looked hand-worked (a good example was the criss cross fastening across denim jeans’ zippers), and a vintage vibe and recycled looks were a key element of the collection.

The runway featured a cast of Hollywood who’s who, including highbrow actor Olivia Colman in a glossy leather skirt suit, Emma Corrin, Jamie Bell, and supermodel Gigi Hadid, who closed the show in a crystal-embellished skirt, sports bra and sneakers.

This is Miu Miu as we’ve come to know and love it. Only Miuccia Prada has the foresight, the confidence and the cheek, really, to present the ordinary to us as elegant, and the elegant as ordinary.