Berry Bros – 2019 Château Montrose, St Estèphe
Today brings the release of the hugely anticipated 2019 Ch. Montrose, St Estèphe – As ever, volumes are very limited.
Château Montrose, a 2ème Cru Classé estate, owned by Martin and Olivier Bouygues, is one of the leading properties of St Estéphe and produces some of the longest-lived wines in the Médoc. Unusually, however, it is also the youngest of all the 1855 Classified Growth as up until the early 1800s it was actually part of the larger Calon estate. Its unique hillside terroir led then owner, Theodore Dumoulin, to fully plant the vineyard and build what is one of the Médoc’s most elegant châteaux.
Château Montrose is located in the east of the appellation, just north of the hamlet of Marbuzet, on a gravel knoll only 800 metres from the Gironde estuary. The proximity of the estuary ensures a microclimate that protects against frost as well as excessive heat and the vines, which lie on deep clay-gravel soils, benefit from a south-easterly aspect.
Since 2012 CEO Hervé Berland (ex-Managing Director of Ch. Mouton Rothschild) has continued the good work of Jean Bernard Delmas, while there has been great emphasis placed on ensuring Château Montrose is as green and environmentally conscious as possible.
2019 has produced a number of classic wines, particularly on the Left Bank. Communes like St. Estèphe have performed exceptionally well at the top end, with many already showing signs of greatness from the early feedback. Always a powerful wine, yet here its masculinity is balanced by a freshness and minerality in similar fashion to last year.
Perhaps even reminiscent of 2016 according to Jane Anson of Decanter and the 23% discount to last year’s release (£780 per 6) is welcome news.
2019 Château Montrose, St Estèphe, Bordeaux
£600 per case of 6 bottles in bond
“Oh this is good, it steals up on you with real depth of flavour, stately and concentrated in a way that reminds me of a 1996 or a 2016. Extremely measured, very clear that this is going to age effortlessly, it is extremely discreet and yet packed with persistent flavours. A masterclass in the flavours and aromatics that you expect in a great Médoc wine – slate, crushed stones, savoury blackcurrant, liquorice, hints of smoke and cold ash. After five minutes in the glass the sweeter berry fruit comes out, and the whole thing is sappy and mouth-watering and makes you smile. 12% press wine, 3.77oH. A yield of 47hl/ha. 60% new oak. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Drinking Window 2029 – 2050.”
98/100 Jane Anson, Decanter
“Deep purple-black hue. Slightly shy and reserved but clearly has plenty of depth. Elegant, dark-fruit fragrance as the wine opens. Clean and direct on attack with a marked note of salinity. Plenty of power but really refined tannins assisted by a bright, juicy quality to the fruit. Incredible length on the finish. Drink 2030 – 2050.”
18+/20 James Lawther, Jancisrobinson.com