Acne Management: A Multifaceted Approach
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As someone who has had their fair share in struggling with all things skin, I was filled with excitement to watch SkinGenius’s multifaceted approach to treating acne. Aesthetic therapist and founder of SkinGenius, Martine Jarman, gave a 50-minute presentation on her practice and the treatments you would receive as a client of SkinGenius who are well versed in helping any and all on their journey to beating acne. Martine quickly informed us that acne is a notorious sore spot for aestheticians and requires a multifaceted approach to get results: something she would know a lot about given her 25 years of experience and mission to champion skin health first and foremost.
The common myth that acne is something that purely applies to teenagers and that you simply grow out of is quickly debunked by Jarman who highlights that whilst dealing with teenage patients, adult acne is also very common. It can be an issue for people of all skin types at any age so don’t feel embarrassed to talk about it! Acne is a multifactorial inflammatory disorder according to Jarman, which therefore rationalises SkinGenius multifaceted approach to combat acne from managing oily skin types to treatment and management of scarring for all grades of acne – yes there are grades, from I – IV!
Jarman highlights that it is crucial to fully understand the grade of acne that a patient has to ensure that they receive the most effective treatment.
But what exactly is acne? According to developments in the skin sphere by microbiologists, it has been identified that there has been a change in the bacteria that can cause acne from Propionibacterium Acne (or P. Acne) to Cutibacterium Acne, otherwise known as C. Acne.
C. Acne is lipophilic and subsequently causes increased oil production on the skin as it affects the sebaceous glands. As the skin produces more oil, the C. Acne bacteria population grows, thus creating a vicious cycle. Therefore, treatment looks into controlling the level of bacteria on the skin so as not to produce too much oil, typical of the T-zone, but is also mindful to prevent stripping the skin of natural oils and bacteria as C. Acne is part of the normal bacteria skin population on our bodies; it’s just the excess that’s the problem. The deep, painful, spots that we experience are called lesions which are split into two groups; inflammatory and non-inflammatory. Inflammatory lesions are more common with adult acne whereas non-inflammatory occur with teenage acne. The evolution of an acne lesion is caused by stimulation of androgen hormones relating to testosterone levels which occur in both men and women. The stimulation in androgen hormones stimulates the growth of the sebaceous gland and increases oil production on the skin. Therefore, exfoliation is key in order to remove excess oil and prevent the build-up of oil and dead skin cells which will subsequently create closed and open comedones (whiteheads and blackheads). Jarman discusses that her clinic will help with this process and that the active ingredients in the products they use will help to control the level of oil produced to prevent outbreaks – hurray!
Jarman explains that hormonal acne is the one she is seeing the most often in the clinic which deals with the changing hormones around the menstrual cycle and the havoc it can wreak on your skin. The average menstrual cycle is 28 days and each of these days are different hormonally. In the first half of the woman’s cycle, the predominant hormone is oestrogen whereas in the second half it is progesterone. As the period approaches, both of these hormones fall to their lowest, whereas the testosterone hormone remains constant. We, therefore, see from days 18-21 flare-ups are beginning to take place within the skin. Jarman highlights that patients need to think about switching up their products depending on where they are in their cycle such as around days 18-21 the oil production is increasing therefore using a cleanser with a higher salicylic acid content and exfoliation is required to control the level of oil and prevent dead skin build-up.
Should you choose to become a client of SkinGenius, rest assured your acne recovery will be tailored to you as Jarman has a fastidious consultation process; she explains the consultation can span to over an hour and a half if required. The consultation process is divided into three sections; Consultation (25 minutes), Facial (45 minutes), and Treatment Planning (20 minutes). For the initial consultation Jarman will discuss with the client hormonal fluctuations, genetics, stress, health conditions, medications and supplements, lifestyle – she leaves no stone unturned! It is critical to analyse acne factors on a case by case basis in order to produce effective results for individuals whether that is a topical approach through creams and nutrition or a pharmaceutical route with medicine such as Accutane. As Jarman is an aesthetic therapist she cannot prescribe medicine however, she does work closely with a prescribing doctor who can step in. She is also able to refer her patients down the prescribed medical route.
Next is the facial which includes active treatment but at entry-level to assess the skin and is an opportunity for patch tests in order to allow Jarman to determine the course of therapy appropriate for the patient. As a consultant and opinion leader for both KOL and ZO Skin Health, Jarman is well versed in products that actually work for acne-prone skin. If you suffer from acne, then these are some of the top active ingredients you should be looking for in your products;
- Hydroxy Acids
- Pyruvic Acid
- Mandelic Acid
- Glycolic Acid
- Salicyclic Acid
- Azelaic Acid
Equally, topical retinol and retinoid treatments can prove very effective which includes Benzoyl peroxide and sulphur. Furthermore, anti-inflammatory ingredients are fantastic for soothing the skin which includes botanicals and barrier protectors. SkinGenius also used skin treatment modalities such as peels, extractions, IPL, hydrofacials, and many more in order to tailor the programme to you and your skin. The facial is then followed by the Treatment Planning where Jarman discusses the findings of the facial and the next steps for homecare of skin and the next steps in the patient’s treatment journey all neatly presented in a folder filled with information – your hand is being held by SkinGenius from start to finish on your skin journey.
Acne Control by ZO Skin Health
Jarman also addresses the importance of taking care of the psychological as well as the physical side effects of acne. Having had acne herself, Martine understands the psychological struggle that acne can cause and is here to lend a helping hand. Psychological factors caused by acne are anxiety, shame, embarrassment, and loss of confidence, just to name a few. Nevertheless, Jarman is firm when she says that she requires total commitment from her clients and that it is a journey, not a quick fix, and patient’s expectations have to be managed as results take time and patience.
The pesky spot I felt emerging on my jaw now stood no chance thanks to Martine Jarman and Professional Beauty.
