The weight of references and remembrances made for looks that were sometimes densely layered—green upcycled shirting under a cagoule under a knit cummerbund under a paisley piped suit in Japanese woven houndstooth under a shoulder-robed cashmere coat—and sometimes powerfully competitive: leopard print pants in combat with a matchy-matchy paisley shirt and sweater. Etro extended the studiedly shambolic range of source material from menswear to homewear via quilted paisley outerwear and ponchos in tapestry jacquards. He buttressed his looks with velcro-secured bandoliers of printed leather personal luggage. Punchy “vitamin colors” accented fetching weave-detail sneakers, cable-knit sweater vests and those hand-knit cummerbunds to add beetroot, lime or blueberry jolts to Etro’s multiple-ingredient wearable smoothies. When the models emerged en masse from their runway space into the wintery sunshine on Via Tortona they resembled friends reunited who, unconvinced of exactly what to wear, had instead decided to wear everything they could for the joy of it.


Sean Mitchell

Sean Mitchell

Author at Pynck

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