Calvin Luo – SPRING 2022 MENSWEAR
Calvin Luo
SPRING 2022 MENSWEAR
After an extensive spring 2022 womenswear collection, Calvin Luo is thinking more concisely for men’s. At just 12 looks, the lineup is a distillation of his best ideas around ’70s tailoring and sharp color palettes. “I enjoy it when my womenswear and menswear collections relate to each other,” he said. That they do: Fastenings, fabrics, and an overall crispness are shared between the collections.
Retro tailoring and bright colors can read as essentials in his womenswear collections, but for men, a fuzzy pink bomber or a cropped leather harness signals something more subversive or radical. “It is more about gender disruption rather than styles,” Luo affirms. “As womenswear embraced elements of menswear, men’s fashion also became more gender neutral in the 1970s; it got bolder. This idea was the starting point of the collection.”
It’s an idea that seems to have taken hold in Shanghai and other cosmopolitan Chinese cities, in fact. Vogue Runway’s own street style coverage shows a move towards more unexpected combinations of style, garment, and textures. Men, women, whoever—Luo’s sleek new clothes are for everyone.
Calvin Luo founded his eponymous label in 2014 following a two year study at Parsons in New York City.
The label has predominantly shown womenswear collections epitomized by the blurring of boundaries separating menswear and womenswear. Calvin Luo launched his first stand-alone menswear collection for Spring/Summer 2019.
Luo likes to put a spin on a temporal reference. His collections have explored the subcultures of ‘50s-era Americana, the dazzling ‘70s and a “Virgin Suicides” tainted ‘90s suburban America. From these time vignettes always emerges a strong and focused story, which has helped to position himself in the foreground of the new and exciting Shanghai fashion scene.
Calvin Luo is also the founder of Rouge Fashion Book, China’s first independent fashion and art magazine.
