Lisbon Fashion Week A/W 2026/7: A New Cold Current of Iberian Intimacy

by Cecile Paul · Published May 5, 2026 · Updated May 5, 2026

DINO ALVES, CARLOS GIL, ÇAL PFUNGST, GONÇALO PEIXOTO, LUIS CARVALHO, BÁRBARA ATANÁSIO, DUARTEHAJIME and ARNDES

A Quiet Storm Raged Along the Atlantic Ocean, Calling for Cocoons, Cloaks and Capotes, and Collections Whispered of Saudade (that Untranslatable Portuguese Sense of Longing). Are You Heeding the Iberian Call?

Luís Carvalho at Lisbon Fashion Week

On trend: headscarf and voluminous suit. At Luís Carvalho

Image Credit Lisboa Fashion Week

As Winter tails off, Lisbon Fashion Week returned for the Fall/Winter 2026/7 season with a renewed sense of purpose: to prove that Portuguese design is a compelling counterpoint to the traditional European Fashion Weeks.

Against the city’s historic backdrop of ancient cobbled hills and quaint tiled facades, a fashion week that has earned its own inimitable character, unfolded.

Collections oozed raw emotion and a kind of melancholic romance, a ‘quiet storm’ of sorts that felt very Atlantic indeed.

One sensed designers aimed to do more than just cover the body in something special – it felt that the idea was to be sumptuously enfolded as well as protected. Think cocoon coats, head scarves and oversized sunglasses!

Portuguese design had evidently moved beyond Summer’s sun-drenched minimalism into a ‘tactile, touchy-feely maximalism’ (think reclaimed luxe leather and sturdy wool juxtaposed with flimsy organza and silk chiffon) and one where craftsmanship and deconstructed tailoring formed the solid backbone of collections.

Palettes were darker, where neutrals – volcanic black, deep ink blue, charcoal, dove grey, dark chocolate, biscuit, bison, camel and beige – whispered rather than shouted on the runways, and the occasional shock of pillar box red, orange, moss green or sky blue added to the allure of the quietly understated, multi-layered looks.

From Ochre to liquid gold. At Gonçalo Peixot

Silhouettes were sculptural, often military-inspired (let’s not forget Portugal has a long maritime history), tailoring was voluminous (e.g. coats were vast and floor-sweeping, and shoulders generous), whilst various designers found their inspiration in Portuguese heritage and historical events.

So, without further ado, pull on your sea-green cashmere top, tie your silk head scarf securely under your chin and apply some oversized sunnies.

Join us on a dramatic coastal journey along the Atlantic with its moody skies, fog, sea mist and powerful storms. And be inspired by the offerings of both the fashion heavyweights and emerging rebels. (Caviat: notebook at the ready… you won’t want to miss a single fabulous detail.)

Let’s kick off with a video with some of the highlights backstage and on the runways: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IRzkssDst3Q

The look of the season: Headscarf, sunnies and a luxe navy wool coat. At Carlos Gil

DINO ALVES

Drama on the runway! Known for his signature theatrical offerings, Dino Alves fused tulle skirts, knits, tailoring and denim with subtle elements of Portuguese heritage for Fall 2026/7. And it worked a treat.

The crisp white blouses with their traditional embroidery looked contemporary and crafty and the quirky layering – especially in the menswear offering – worked very well. As did the perforated surface design effects and cut-outs in the skirts and jackets.

The deconstructed tailoring looked most covetable, and we just adore the high-waisted belts that snaked their way around waists, and across the entire collection!

At Dino Alves

CARLOS GIL

Carlos Gil delivered a masterclass in contemporary pieces that drew on inspiration from many different cultures, entitled ‘The World’.

He caters for the cosmopolitan, sophisticated woman who is constantly reinventing herself. We’re delighted to report that despite that, menswear was certainly not forgotten!

Says Carlos Gil, “the silhouettes alternate between structured and fluid, while patterns inspired by Art Nouveau intersect with a vibrant palette that evokes the 70s and 80s, in intense reds, luminous yellows, deep greens, and striking blues, balanced by neutrals and black.”

We particularly adored the scarf-like wrap dresses paired with quaint little woollen coats (with their gorgeous floral collar corsages), mid-calf socks, pointy shoes and oversized sunglasses – such a contemporary look!

The transparent lacy chiffon dresses with their marabou feather trims were begging to be layered – but of course the brave amongst us will sport these just like Carlos Gil’s models did – au natural!

At Carlos Gil

ÇAL PFUNGST

Çal Pfungst (the artistic name of uber-talented Gonçalo Pereira) is known for combining fashion, performance art and conceptual art. Little wonder this offering was as dramatic and theatrical as it was wearable.

Sumptuous velvet in rose and rust, and sturdy tweed and wool in earthy shades formed the basis for the relaxed tailoring, some of it with more than a hint of nostalgic period costume.

The avant-garde flavour of many of the ensembles, with their clever draping, ruching and zipper details made for one of the most exciting offerings of the season.

Bring on the drama!

At Çal Pfungst

LUIS CARVALHO

To close Lisbon Fashion Week, Luís Carvalho presented ‘After Image,’ “a silent territory.” According to the designer this is “a place where time blurs contours and memories reinvent themselves between the real and the imaginary.”

Silhouettes came with nipped waists, structured shoulders and dropped armholes that, according to the designer, “suggest a carefree, almost instinctive attitude”, with “a subtle tension between rigour and freedom, between what we remember and what we reinvent.”

Ruched waists on the women’s skirts and men’s trousers as well as on a women’s chiffon blouse drew the eye straight to the midriff. Belts and pleats further emphasised the subtle hourglass waistlines.

The collection is crisp and clean, black and white was interspersed with pillar box red and a very distinctive pinstripe beige.

An ensemble that made us jump for joy was the grey salt-and-pepper men’s suit with its relaxed volume, vertical shoulder pleats, epaulettes, applied pocket, belt and crisp white shirt – perfection!

At Luis Carvalho

BÁRBARA ATANÁSIO

This was without a doubt one of the most impressive menswear collections of the season, blurring the lines between streetwear and avant-garde fashion.

With a clear focus on sustainability and reuse, Bárbara Atanásio transformed everyday garments -T-shirts, denim and hoodies – into extraordinary, deconstructed pieces.

This collection embraced raw finishes, distressed fabrics, imperfections and layering, all while sporting their signature oversized silhouettes.

We love the bold looks – verging on the New Romantics, especially the layered denim, the plaid, tartan and the oversized boots. (Oh, and there was no shying away from exposing plenty skin!)

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At Bárbara Atanásio

GONÇALO PEIXOTO

If texture is your thing, Gonçalo Peixoto produced a masterclass: from frothy lacy slip dresses and feathery minis to sparkly sequins on a tweed jacket-dress, it was a tactile affair of note.

Silk taffeta ballgown skirts and mini bra-lets rubbed shoulders with transparent lace slip dresses and satin 4-piece suits.

Silhouettes couldn’t have been more diverse either: from floor-sweeping skirts to micro tops, and all in a palette that ranged from organic, earthy shades to rich ochre and luxe gold.

At Gonçalo Peixoto

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At Gonçalo Peixoto

DUARTEHAJIME

Duartehajime managed to effortlessly fuse Japanese austerity with Portuguese melancholy.

Silhouettes were oversized, creating cocoon-like ‘envelopes. The designer wanted to create “a real cocoon of privacy for those wearing the garments, both in the intimate moments of getting dressed and offstage.”

This is streetwear that draws on urban life and culture, blending details like zippers, press studs and rivets very effectively with metallics, leather, oversized hand knits and animal prints.

The end result is a very distinctive unisex collection that looks seriously comfortable and lounge-y, yet is ultra-sophisticated, stylish and elegant.

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At Duartehajime

At Duartehajime

At Duartehajime

ARNDES

Leather, satin, chiffon and fleecy wool were elements that effortlessly combined to define the tactile essence of this touchy-feely collection.

The palette ranged from cream to black, with subtle shades of champagne, dove grey and even a pop of oxblood in the mix, to make for an offering that can only be described as understated good taste.

It’s sensual, aesthetic and super elegant. Oh, and will blend with just about everything you have in your wardrobe…

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