Paris Fashion Week SS27: Independent Labels, front row

Forget the mega-brands for a moment. Some of the most exciting fashion in Fravce this season came from the independent circuit for the Paris Fashion Week SS27, where Fashion Synergy brought together a group of couture labels, mostly women-led, each built on its founder’s own heritage.

Meyacota, by Bosnian designer Sumeja Arifović, opened with her new collection « The Obsessed Artist ». She offered one of the runway’s most distinctive statements with a dress built around an asymmetric hoop and long black-and-white fringes.

MEYACOTA

MEYACOTA

Jacques Lagrange worked in black alone. Generous draping, enormous sequins and clouds of sheer tulle gave the colour a lightness and an evening gloss, with volume carrying each look.

JACQUES LAGRANGE

Jacques Lagrange

JACQUES LAGRANGE

Jacques Lagrange

JACQUES LAGRANGE2

Jacques Lagrange

At Akobie, the 1920s arrived by way of West Africa. Aso-Oke, Adire, Ankara, damask and lace were cut into relaxed silhouettes, gathered softly at the hip and finished with an elegant hat. A pale blue kaftan ballgown, with generous puff sleeves and an extraordinary draped construction, was among the evening’s most memorable pieces.

AKOBIE

Akobie

AKOBIE

Akobie

AKOBIE

Akobie

That sense of occasion continued at Milan based Atelier Daniela De Souza whose romantic gowns made with Italian craftsmanship recalled the best of Elie Saab. Skirts were full and sweeping. Rhinestones were set with a jeweller’s precision along pencil skirts and corseted bodices.

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

DANIELE DE SOUZA

Salvéra Design London, founded by Afghan-born Saleha Sultani, was the show for colour and texture. Richly dyed Afghan textiles were layered and pulled in at the waist with embroidered or metal belts. Silk skirts dropped on the slant, ending in long, swaying fringes. The standout pieces were three magnificent couture coats in Afghan cloth, among them one in warm beige and one in white and red.

SALVERA

Salvéra Design

SALVERA

Salvéra Design

SALVERA

Salvéra Design

SALVERA

Salvéra Design

Romantic at De Souza, commanding at Lagrange, quietly assured at Salvéra, theatrical at Akobie: the woman changed from house to house, and each version was convincing.


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