Berry Bros – New Release: 2020 Ch. Giscours, Margaux
A Classified 3rd Growth, Ch. Giscours represents one of the best value purchases for classically profiled Margaux of excellent quality. Margaux, as an appellation, tends to be least homogenous appellation on the Left Bank, however, in recent years Ch. Giscours has failed to make 1) a poor wine and 2) a wine that is not characteristically Giscours to the core. 2020 is no different.
Located in the commune of Labarde, Ch. Giscours is one of the largest properties in Margaux and now very much produces wine worthy of its Classified 3rd Growth status. The property was in a dire state when it was acquired by Nicholas Tari in 1952. He invested heavily and the quality of the wine improved beyond recognition. In 1995 he sold up to the late Dutch businessman, Eric Albada Jelgersma, who installed the charismatic Alexander van Beek as managing director.
Its 80 hectares of vineyards are planted to 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The Grand Vin is typically fermented in 26 stainless steel tanks and 42 concrete vats and then aged in 40-50% new barriques for 18 months. The result is a richly aromatic Margaux which in the best vintages produces a powerful and polished palate, displaying classic ripe, black fruit with hints of cedar and new oak.
My View
Another high-quality Margaux release which has been lauded by all the critics in 2020. Giscours is a favourite of our Fine Wine team and for many customers also. Generous, concentrated Margaux which always ages beautifully.
2020 Ch. Giscours, Margaux
£246 per 6 bottle case in bond
£255 per 12 half bottle case in bond
£252 per 3 magnum case in bond
£194 per Double Magnum in bond
£366 per Imperial in bond
£572 per Salmanazar in bond
“In 2020, Ch. Giscours have achieved very concentrated fruit flavours, yet the elegant style of the Chateau is upheld. Blackcurrants, blackberries and blueberries are all easily identifiable alongside plums and black cherries. The presence of oak can be felt in the structure of the wine, as overt oaky flavours are nowhere to be seen. The tannins are pleasantly chalky and grippy, almost giving off a herbal note. A very refined offering from Margaux and one that will age beautifully. Drink 2025-2045.”
Tatiana Humphreys, Private Account Manager
“The 2020 Giscours was picked from September 21 to October 2. The huge difference in quality between the Grand Vin and Deuxième Vin is apparent on the nose of crystal-clear black fruit intermixed with raspberry, crushed stone and light crushed violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, taut and crisp, and quite tensile, leading to a classically styled, sapid finish. This is a classy Giscours with plenty of breeding. Drink 2024-2050.”
93-95/100, Neal Martin, Vinous
“The 2020 Giscours is surprisingly juicy and forward, with lovely mid-palate richness from the Merlot that comprises 44% of the blend. Inky dark fruit, new leather, spice, menthol and dried herbs all meld together effortlessly. In 2020 Giscours is a real charmer. I imagine it will drink well with minimal cellaring. Harvest started on September 8 for the Merlot and finished with the last of the Cabernets on October 3, which is a good week ahead of schedule. Yields are down about 25% from the 2019, mostly because of heat and dry weather during the summer. New oak is 50%. Drink 2030-2050.”
93-95/100, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot, the 2020 Giscours reveals a deep garnet-purple color and compelling notes of crushed redcurrants, plum preserves and Morello cherries, leading to hints of lavender, wild sage, damp soil and black truffles with a touch of licorice. The medium-bodied palate bursts with vibrant red and black fruits and lots of savory accents, supported by soft, very well managed tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing on a lingering fragrant earth note. Drink 2024-2044.”
92-94+/100, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, The Wine Advocate
“This is an excellent Giscours, extremely precise, well drawn and seductive. There is both concentration and spice, and a vivid sappy feel to the raspberry and bilberry fruits, all drawn out through the palate as the slate texture kicks in. Plenty of things to keep track on here, not least that this is now the only estate in Margaux owned by the Albada family, as they have sold du Tertre. The focus is now entirely on Giscours, and I would expect to see a concerted effort to raise the visibility of the property. Changes include Thomas Duclos as consultant since 2019, and vineyard choices such as intra-plot harvesting, meaning going in waves through the plots picking individual vines when they are at full ripeness. Plus, Jerome Poisson is the new technical director (a French Canadian, who worked in Napa, Italy, Chile, Cognac and Alsace), replacing Lorenzo Pasquini. 50% new oak for ageing. A yield of 35hl/ha. Drink 2028-2044.”
95/100, Jane Anson, Decanter Magazine
“56% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot. Cask sample.
Deep crimson hue. Reined-in and reserved at present but leans towards a dark-fruit expression. Mouth-filling fruit on the palate with just a touch of sweetness and fine-grained tannins that support and build behind. Supple texture, good persistence and freshness all the way through. Potential. Drink 2027-2038.”
16.5+/20, James Lawther MW, www.jancisrobinson.com
“Aromas of crushed berries, dried flowers and spices with undertones of ink and iron. Full-bodied with wonderful, fine tannins that are totally embedded in the structure. Endless length and such refinement. Rather ethereal. Another winner from Giscours.”
96-97/100, James Suckling, www.jamessuckling.com
Ian O’Kane
Fine Wine Sales (Ireland)
